Arrangement of ventilation from sewer pipes: assembling a plastic system with your own hands

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Well-designed ventilation in a private house is a guarantee of a healthy and comfortable microclimate in living quarters and the durability of building structures. Agree that the budget also plays an important role in this. If an expensive system is needed in a solid building, then in a summer cottage it is most often unnecessary.

Various materials are used in the construction of ventilation ducts. Among them are galvanized steel recommended by SNiPs, polymer and asbestos products, corrugation, brickwork, concrete and ceramic blocks. However, in summer cottages, ventilation from sewer pipes is constructed more often than the listed options.

We will talk about the pros and cons of such a solution. Let's get acquainted with the options for its implementation that have been proven in practice. Independent home craftsmen will find valuable recommendations for the construction of a ventilation network.

The content of the article:

  • Sewer pipes: pros and cons
  • Ventilation system requirements
    • Calculation of pipes for the installation of ventilation
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  • Features of the ventilation device of a private house
    • System assembly features
    • Link aggregation requirements
    • The passage of ventilation ducts through the roof
  • Ventilation system assembly stages
  • Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Sewer pipes: pros and cons

It would seem that you are doing ventilation, buy ventilation pipes. Moreover, the stores offer a large selection from different manufacturers. However, upon closer examination, it turns out that plastic ventilation pipes, with external similarity, are 2 or even 5 times more expensive than sewer pipes.

First of all, it is, of course, color. Most often, ventilation pipes are produced in white, which is certainly more aesthetically pleasing in the context of internal integration into the interior. The color of the funnel pipes is gray. However, this advantage is insignificant if the ventilation duct runs through the wall, is sewn up with a box or simply painted over in the color of the walls.

Sewer pipe ventilation

A ventilation system made of sewer pipes is much cheaper than a ventilation system. Nobody wants to overpay, so it's better to immediately find out all the differences and similarities between them.

Let's take a look at the material of manufacture. Plastic pipes for ventilation and sewer are made of:

  • polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
  • polypropylene (PP);
  • polyethylene (PET or HDPE, LDPE).

That is, all the advantages of plastic products are inherent in both pipelines:

  • ease;
  • ease of installation;
  • variety of fittings;
  • tightness;
  • smooth inner surface;
  • impact resistance;
  • non-susceptibility to any kind of corrosive processes;
  • resistance to aggressive environments;
  • antibacterial properties;
  • electrical insulation;
  • durability.

A huge number of fittings for creating pipelines, both sewer and ventilation, allows you to lay systems of various configurations.

Fittings for assembling plastic pipelines

In many respects, plastic pipes are preferable to those made from other materials. They are easier to install and the least load on building structures

We have listed the advantages, now let's touch on the disadvantages. By and large, they are also common to all plastic pipelines. The main disadvantage is flammability. According to fire safety rules, no combustible materials should be used in ventilation ducts.

When laying plastic pipeline from any pipes, the owner of the house receives a fire conduit with constant excellent draft throughout the house. That is why, for fire safety purposes, especially for wooden houses, there is always one recommendation: non-combustible materials - tin, galvanized, ceramics, concrete, brickwork.

Ventilation

The sewer pipes can be used to assemble pipelines of any configuration. For the formation of all types of nodes - turns, linear connections, forks, a wide range of shaped elements is produced

Differences in pipe diameters will also cause some difficulty in building a ventilation system. All standard ventilation systems are sharpened for diameters 100mm, 125mm, 150mm, 200mm. And these are air ducts, fittings, fasteners and, most importantly, for forced systems - ventilation equipment (fans).

Standard diameters of sewer pipes are: 110mm, 160mm, 200mm. That is, they do not match the diameter of the ventilation equipment.

Fan in the sewer pipe

All problems with the difference in diameters of pipes and ventilation equipment, as a rule, can be solved. If it is necessary to install the fan in the duct, it is installed using an adapter or a hermetic seal

Thus, to create a natural ventilation system in all respects (except for combustibility), sewer pipes and fittings are suitable. However, if docking with an existing ventilation duct is to be done, or it is planned to use fans and other ventilation equipment, this issue will need to be resolved.

If the difference in diameter is 1-2 mm, you can simply put the device on the sealant. If the difference is greater, you will have to buy a suitable size coupling to connect the pair. Another difference pointed out by manufacturers ventilation pipes - the possibility of electrifying the fan pipelines.

Cleaning the ventilation duct

Air ducts made of any materials need periodic cleaning. After all, the streams of exhaust air carry with them dust, dust suspended in them, fat, animal hair

When the air flow moves on the inner surface of the pipe, a static electric charge appears, attracting dust.

Moreover, this is true when the device hoods in the kitchen, when fumes, soot, oil particles in the air are sucked into the ventilation. All this settles on the inner surface of the pipes and is coked with dust, narrowing the diameter of the working passage.

Ventilation pipe manufacturers use antistatic treatment in their manufacture. However, if you think about it, then in the case of a kitchen, an antistatic agent is unlikely to help, and in ordinary ventilation, not so much dust settles.

Ventilation scheme

Natural ventilation for a private house is the most preferable option. It is simple in design and maintenance, it does not have equipment that can periodically fail.

In any case, on the homeowners' forums dedicated to this issue, there are no horrifying photos with completely clogged dust and dirt aisles. Therefore, this aspect can be attributed to the field of marketing horror stories.

Ventilation system requirements

The requirements for the ventilation system for a private house are universal, that is, they do not depend on the materials from which it is mounted.

Natural ventilation from sewer pipes should provide the following air volumes:

  • for residential premises up to 20 sq.m. - 3 cubic meters per hour per person;
  • for residential premises with an area of ​​30 sq.m. and more - 30 cubic meters of air per hour per person;
  • for kitchens equipped with an electric stove - more than 60 cubic meters;
  • for technical rooms in which there is a gas boiler - 140 cubic meters;
  • boiler room with a natural gas heat generator - 3-fold renewal;
  • for bath and toilet - 25 cubic meters per hour;
  • laundry room, drying room - 90 cubic meters per hour;
  • pantry, dressing room - multiplicity 0.2;
  • office, library - 0.5 volume per hour.

When using sewer pipes, consider:

  • plastic has a fairly limited operating temperature range - no more than 70 degrees, so sewer pipes cannot be used for ventilation of saunas, baths, workshops;
  • compatibility with fans and other equipment in the diameter of the joint;
  • the plastic is unstable, i.e. is capable of expanding when heated and returning to its previous dimensions when cooling, therefore, it is necessary to provide for the presence of compensating sections, for example, from corrugation;
  • the need to install thermal insulation in some areas (in the attic);
  • combination of ventilation pipelines with roof elements for installation on top of the roof covering.

For device forced system in the cellar, in the attic or attic, in living quarters, kitchens and bathrooms, calculations are carried out taking into account the performance of fans and other equipment.

Calculation of pipes for the installation of ventilation

When calculating to create an effective ventilation system, 2 tasks are solved:

  • the productivity of the entire system is calculated;
  • the required amount of materials is calculated.

First of all, the required diameter of plastic ducts for all areas is calculated.

To determine the cross-section of the ventilation ducts, the following actions are performed:

  • the volume of rooms is calculated by the linear dimensions of each: height, length, width (the data is multiplied);
  • the received data are summarized;
  • the required amount of air is determined for replacement in 1 hour in living rooms, a boiler room, a boiler room, and bathrooms. For a quick calculation, you can take the norm: renewal of the entire volume of air in living quarters once per hour;
  • the result is rounded up;
  • the diameter of the air ducts is determined according to the table, taking into account the speed of the air flow and their volume.

To install an air vent from the kitchen and boiler room, you need to use pipes with a diameter of 150mm or 200mm.

Selection of pipe diameter

To facilitate and speed up the process of selecting the optimal pipe diameter, heating engineers have developed a monogram. If you do not want to waste time on calculations, it is better to use it or accept the averaged values ​​recommended by SNiPs.

For ventilation in the bathroom and in the toilet, a pipe diameter of 100mm to 150mm will be sufficient. When laying the air duct under a stretch ceiling, a channel with a diameter of 100 mm is sufficient.

Features of the ventilation device of a private house

In private houses, natural ventilation systems are arranged much more often - they are cheaper and easier. Often, only one element can be marked for forced exhaust gas removal - cooker hood, with the calculations for the device of which the article recommended by us will acquaint.

So, how to properly organize the movement of air flows, for example, in a one-story house:

  1. Automatic valves must be installed in window profiles or in external walls, as modern windows are airtight.
  2. Between the kitchen and the bathroom (if they are nearby), a block of 3 vertical shafts is immediately placed in the partition, leading through the attic to the roof.
  3. For the passage of air under the interior doors, gaps up to 1 cm wide are arranged. If there are no gaps, then supply grilles are mounted near the doorways or in the door leaf.
  4. The cooker hood is connected to a separate duct. In addition to the main function, it performs an additional one - it takes on part of the load - it can remove up to 100 cubic meters of air. This can be taken into account when calculating the diameter of pipes for kitchen ventilation.
  5. 2 separate shafts lead to the kitchen and bathroom.
  6. Thanks to the natural draft in these 2 channels, the air from the living quarters will rush into the corridor, and from it - to the exhaust grilles.

In advance, you need to make a detailed plan for laying highways and branches. Air ducts should be laid along the shortest path from the inlet to the outlet. Exhaust openings in the walls and passages through the ceiling, joining points should be marked on the diagram.

Ventilation ducts should have a minimum of bends and branches, and the hood should be located strictly vertically. The length of the horizontal sections should not exceed 3 meters, and the air ducts should be additionally fastened with fasteners.

Ventilation system diagram

The more detailed the ventilation scheme is drawn up, the easier it will be to implement. Air intake with a natural ventilation device is carried out through the ducts located in the base or the lower part of the wall, drainage - through ventilation openings and channels located under the ceiling or in the upper overlapping

For a natural ventilation device, the height of the exhaust duct must be at least 5m. Otherwise, there will be weak traction. Otherwise, it will be necessary to install fans in the channels of the upper floors, and this will translate the circuit into a combined one, i.e. partially mechanical type.

Fresh air supply can be:

  1. infiltration - through windows, cracks, ventilators in window systems;
  2. controlled - through climate control systems.

The exhaust duct is usually located 250mm below the ceiling.

System assembly features

To achieve greater tightness, it is more convenient to assemble the channels in blocks, and then mount them in assembled blocks. This is purely a matter of ease of assembly. It is better to start laying with the installation of separate channels in the kitchen, bathroom or bathroom.

Air flow movement

Mark immediately on the diagram the direction of movement of air flows. This will make it easier to develop optimal routes for laying ventilation ducts and choose places for placing system components.

The holes in the ceilings are made in such a way that the pipe can easily enter into place. Initially, the hole with the pipe can be fixed with a rag, then the fixation is fixed with polyurethane foam.

Commonly used pipe fittings are:

  • tees (in the areas of coupling / branching of the system);
  • bends and knees (in the sections of the channel bends);
  • adapters (when connecting pipes of different sections).

Installation of fans that block check valves, recuperators are made before the final fixation of the ventilation holes. The final fixation to the structures with fasteners or clamps is carried out after the entire section has been assembled. Before tightening the clamps for the last time, the system is checked for functionality.

Link aggregation requirements

The kitchen duct cannot be combined with others. The kitchen exhaust duct must not be combined with cooker hood. The hood must have its own air duct. Many modern models of kitchen hoods have a remote unit that is installed in the attic.

Only channels of the same type are combined - this is a bathroom-toilet-technical room, a laundry. It is possible to combine exhaust pipes from several bathrooms, but with the installation of check valves to prevent the transfer of odors from one toilet to another.

Multiple exhaust ducts

3-4 ventilation ducts usually go into the attic space. For them, they usually arrange a common ventilation shaft, built with bricks or concrete blocks. This is necessary to mask communications and protect them from mechanical stress.

It is not recommended to install ventilation ducts in the outer walls - condensation will form there due to temperature differences. When connecting polymer pipes and fittings it is better to additionally seal the places where the cuffs are installed with silicone for greater tightness and durability of the joints.

It is undesirable to lay air ducts in internal load-bearing walls. They will undoubtedly significantly weaken the structures on which a considerable load is distributed.

No ventilation ducts should be taken out into the chimney. If the channel made of plastic pipes will pass next to the chimney, it will be necessary to install a thermal protective shield made of non-combustible material.

The passage of ventilation ducts through the roof

The easiest option is to do vent pipe outlet through the roof - lead it through the ridge. For pitched roofs, the best solution would be to install a ventilation pipe next to the ridge.

How high should the ventilation pipe be:

  • if it is located next to the chimney, it must be equal to its height;
  • above a flat roof, it should rise more than half a meter;
  • if the pipe is one and a half meters from the ridge, it must be half a meter or more higher than the ridge;
  • if the pipe is located at a distance of 1.5 meters to 3 meters from the ridge, it must be level with the ridge in height;
  • if it is more than 3 meters away from the ridge, then it may be lower than the ridge, the height is determined by building a drawing with an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge;
  • from the head of the ventilation pipe to the nearest window must be at least 3.5 meters.

More precisely, the height of the pipe can be calculated from its diameter. All the necessary data can be viewed in the table below.

Table for determining the diameter of the chimney

The horizontal top row shows the length of the pipes, and the left vertical column shows the width of the duct. In the cells of the table - the equivalent values ​​of the diameter of the duct

The best way to run multiple ducts through the roof is to combine them into a ventilation shaft. It can hold up to 6 pipes.

It is much easier to make and seal one opening in the roof for a common vertical structure than to cut several openings for the output of round pipes.

Ventilation box

All air ducts and chimney can be combined in one box.

So that the pipes on the street do not freeze over in the supply and exhaust systems, they are sheathed with insulation and revetted. Pipes in an unheated attic or passing through unheated rooms are also required to be insulated. For thermal insulation, hygroscopic materials are used: mineral wool, polyurethane or polyethylene insulation.

Today, polyethylene insulation is very popular. Foamed polyethylene is a ready-made shell-shell for pipes. To isolate them, it is enough to put them on the pipe and glue them along the seam. Some manufacturers also produce adhesive-backed polyethylene foam insulation.

Thermal insulation of ventilation with foil mineral wool

It is necessary to insulate the ventilation pipes to prevent the formation of condensation. Insulation with other materials is fixed to the duct with a metal wire strapping or plastic clamps

After the installation of the thermal insulation, the final fixation is carried out to the load-bearing beams or to the roof structure. After final fixation, a deflector or any other protective device is installed on the roof to protection of the mouth of ventilation pipes from atmospheric water, dusty suspension, wind-blown branches and other pollution.

Ventilation system assembly stages

Ventilation system assembly sequence:

  1. Marking - on the walls and ceilings, the places of communication passage with the mounting points of the fasteners are marked.
  2. Installation of fasteners in pre-marked places.
  3. Collection of a common ventilation riser.
  4. Collection of individual air ducts from indoor areas.
  5. Installation of semi-assembled air ducts and riser.
  6. Connection of branches of the ventilation system.
  7. Sealing connections.
  8. Installation of fans, valves and other devices that increase traction.
  9. Outlet of pipes through the roof.
  10. Insulation of air duct sections in unheated rooms.

Thus, the construction of a ventilation system from sewer pipes does not have fundamental differences with the installation of ventilation systems from special pipes - ventilation.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

An example of assembling a ventilation system in the video:

The following video will introduce the specifics of the construction of a ventilation system in a private house:

The issue of using sewer pipes for the ventilation system of a private house is due to their affordable cost, good tightness and ease of assembly. Do-it-yourself ventilation made of plastic sewer pipes will delight the residents of the house for a long time with its efficiency and durability.

Would you like to share your own experience in the construction of a ventilation system from ordinary sewer pipes? Do you have useful information and technological subtleties that can be useful to site visitors? Please leave comments in the block below, ask questions, post photos on the topic of the article.

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