Do-it-yourself tire septic tank: step-by-step instruction

You are going to sewage in a private house, but have a very limited budget? This is not a reason to deprive yourself of comfort, is not it? Or did you decide to build a septic tank of tires, using the materials at hand? But doubt your own strength and do not know where to start?

We will help you to sort out this issue in detail - the article discusses the running options for the device of a local sewage treatment plant for which you can use used automobile rubber. This material is easy to find in motor transport enterprises, where it is simply written off as useless, or to search for announcements of private individuals.

The article also provides detailed instructions for the manufacture of a homemade septic tank, starting with the calculations and ending with the laying of the sewer pipeline. All actions are accompanied by step-by-step photos.

In order to help the novice master, video recommendations on the arrangement of this type of septic tanks with useful tips on the implementation of tight connections of pipeline sections from the masters were selected.

Arguments in favor of improvised means

How much can you save on a septic tank if you use old tires? One medium-sized concrete ring costs 4,500 r. they need at least three. The cost of a worn tire does not exceed 2,000 rubles, and they need at least three or four.

Accumulative tank series capacity, for example, costs an average of about 18 thousand. rub. Even without taking into account concrete foundations and well covers, the savings would be about 6,000–8,000 p.

But such a septic tank service life is much less than that of concrete or plastic structures. The reason is the lack of solidity of the body, low weight of tires and poor sealing between them.

When the ground moves, the elements often shift. True, if you use a certain technology, then such a septic tank will last longer, and pumping sewage can be done less frequently.

Rules of arrangement of a septic tank

Any construction work, including communication, requires permission from the administration if the depth of the object is more than 5 m.

It is easy to issue it if the survey of the site is done according to the new rules. They entered into force with amendments to the Land Code of the Russian Federation in 2014. Old cadastral passport plots need to be redone. The cost of land surveying is about 6 000 r.

If it is found that a communication cable is embedded in the territory of a private house, additional permission from specialists will be required.

To do this, contact the military unit that owns this cable. They will send a specialist with a metal detector, which will determine exactly where it is impossible to dig.

The location of the tank on the site

When permission is obtained, you need to choose a suitable place for the drain tank. There are certain SANPIN normsto be followed.

If you place a tank for the accumulation of sewage or wastewater treatment plant near the source of drinking water, the drains with possible blockages and leaks will fall into the groundwater.

As a result, leaks will make the water unsuitable for drinking. Infections can be avoided by making the septic tank airtight and arranging a filtration system for purification.

But the reservoir should not be too far from the house either. The large distance between the sewage exit point and the cleaning facility will significantly increase the cost of organizing the system.

It will be necessary to lay a long section of the pipeline, which will need to be provided with manholes.

The outer part of the local sewer network should be provided with at least one manhole. If the length of the line is more than 25 m, an additional well device will be required for auditing and cleaning the system.

In addition, an excessively long pipeline often leads to the formation of blockages. This should not be forgotten, even if a pump is installed for pumping sewage.

Sewer pipe

First you need to be concerned with creating a schema. Installation of autonomous sewer network begins with the release device. After that, the risers are assembled in the direction from bottom to top, the connection of crosses, tees and the construction of floor-by-floor elbows are made.

The installation of the system is carried out on previously prepared routes with punched holes, holes for fixing pipes, made and plastered niches, with a developed trench for the outer branch.

If the house is old, there must be a cellar or underground in it. Then you will not need to remove the flooring. If the house is new, then you need to think about laying pipes in advance, until the floors are laid.

Otherwise they will have to be dismantled, in those places where the pipes will lie. Depending on the complexity and branching of the system, the following elements may be needed.

If the house has two floors, you must immediately install a stand for an additional bathroom or sink on the second floor.

It can be closed with a plug before it is needed.

The sewer network should be designed in such a way as to avoid unnecessary turns, branches and connections..

The optimal route for the device of the outer branch in general should be as straight as possible.

If you still have to perform branching, you should use fittings that match the material of the pipes - most often for sewage use PVC and HDPE pipes.

For tight connection of elements there are special sealing rubber bands inserted into the inside of the sewer pipe. Information on fittings for polypropylene pipes discussed in our other article.

The suitable diameter of sewer pipes for laying to an autonomous septic tank is 110 mm. This is a complete sewage system that will last a long time.

It is better not to save on pipes and put them in the calculation of a possible increase in the load on the system, otherwise they may need to be replaced in the future. The approximate cost of materials can be found here.

After installation of the internal system, the pipe for draining into the septic tank of tires must be brought to the house. You should not arrange a sewer exit from the house under the foundation.

It is better to punch a hole at the depth necessary for output with a crowbar, perforator or use a hollow iron pipe with a sharp end.

Features of laying the sewer pipeline in a private house considered in this article.

After this, a trench is developed from the outside of the house. It runs from the outer wall of the basement to the location of the septic tank.

The trench depth is determined by local climatic conditions. Its bottom should be laid below the level of seasonal soil freezing in the region by 20–30 cm.

The external pipeline is laid with a bias towards the natural movement of wastewater - to the septic tank.

The slope on average 2 - 3 cm per linear meter of pipe.

For systems with compulsory transportation of effluent, a slope of 1 cm on the same segment. Details about the slope of the sewer pipe discussed in our other article.

After laying the external and internal system of sewage pipes, it is necessary to proceed to the selection of a structure for organizing a septic tank from worn tires. There are several ways to make it.

Popular septic tank options

Septic tanks, collected from worn tires, are of three types:

• With filtering system.
• With a sump and filtering (absorption) well.
• With a filter system and drainage pipe.

It is necessary to choose a design proceeding from volumes of sewage. For a family of three people is quite suitable septic tank of tires with a filter system. If the family is large, then such a septic tank will quickly become unusable due to congestion, so it is better to choose the option with a sump and a filter well.

No. 1 - design with a filter system

This is the most cost-effective way for those who did their own hands to make a septic tank of tires. It is enough for him to dig a pit, prepare the bottom and lay the wheels.

The principle of installation of simple facilities for wastewater treatment is clearly and clearly shown in the picture.

The principle of operation is simple:

1. Drains fall into the tank.
2. The solid insoluble component of the effluent does not pass into the ground and is deposited on the surface of the drainage layer of rubble.
3. The filtered water goes into the ground through the drainage.

The disadvantage of the construction is that this type is intended for collecting and cleaning only gray drains: water polluted during cooking, and from the shower room with a bathtub, from washing machines and dishwashers.

Processing of fecal masses in a similar construction is not made.

However, if you arrange a sealed bottom instead of a drainage layer and ensure the tightness of the connection in walls, this option can serve as a reservoir for collecting all types of waste that are to be regularly to pump out.

The advantage of this system is its simplicity. As a dusting, you can choose clay, sand and just plain earth. The disadvantages include the rapid formation at the bottom of the capacity of a sticky sludge residue, which over time will impede the outflow of fluid.

If this happens, it will be necessary to pump out the septic tank and clean the bottom with the subsequent replacement of gravel. Such a septic tank can not be located close to buildings or cellars.

No. 2 - structure with a settling tank and filtering system

This option is more complicated than the previous one, but also more durable. The design consists of two tanks. One is used for settling wastewater, and the other for filtering them before entering the ground.

Principle of operation:

• Wastewater is discharged through the pipe into the first tank.
• Large fractions settle at the bottom of the sump.
• Light fractions along with the liquid component fall through the adjacent pipe into the filter well.
• Liquid effluents are filtered from gravel and sand, and then go to the ground. Light fractions are deposited at the bottom of the absorption well.

This design of a septic tank from old tire covers is the most environmentally friendly and cost-effective. Pumping out of it will need to be carried out no more than 4-5 times a year. Moreover, if the septic tank is constantly used, it is unnecessary to additionally warm it.

No. 3 - septic tank of tires with drainage pipe

This is not the most successful design. The presence of a drainage pipe does not play a special role in the operation of the system.

The principle of operation of this homemade septic system:

• Drains fall into the tank.
• Insoluble impurities are deposited on the rubble.
• The filtered water goes into the ground through a drainage pipe and rubble.

The purpose of the drainage pipe is to drain the water, bypassing the bottom clogged with mud. But she also quickly clogged them and serves not for long.

Stages of construction septic tank

In addition to sewer pipes and components need to stock tires. Fit tires from Kirovtsa. Mounting larger tires cannot be done alone.

Step # 1 - Preparing Materials and Tools

Tools for the device septic tank do it yourself:

1. Drill.
2. Bulgarian.
3. Pliers.
4. Shovel sovkovaya.
5. Shovel pick.
6. Stairs.
7. Scrap.
8. Ax.
9. Buckets.
10. Roulette.

For trimming polypropylene pipes use pipe cutterbut you can use a knife. Materials required for the work are available. They can be bought at any hardware store.

If the “native” soil chosen during the excavation of the excavation and trenches does not contain layers of sandy loam and loam, it can be used for backfilling.

In the presence of clay interlayers and lenses replacement is required.

It is not necessary to fill up in the sewer construction expensive granite rubble, which is represented in the photo.

It is suitable budget dolomite or lime equivalent.

Step # 2 - calculate the amount of materials

The required depth of the septic tank is 2, 5-3 m. As a result of the tire connection, one large tank should be obtained without a cap, with a bottom or without a bottom.

The depth of the septic tank should be divided by the width of the tire. It will be enough seven tires from Kirovtsy and two tires from Kamaz.

The number of pipes must be determined on the basis of the distance from the septic tank to the house. This distance should be divided by 3 meters (the length of the longest sewer pipes). The resulting number will be equal to their number.

It is better to take it with a reserve, as in the process of the device of a septic tank they can be damaged. Still need one pipe to connect the two tanks septic tank.

To take collars at the rate of 5 on two wheels (with a stock). If knitting wire is used instead, 1-2 meters is enough. For waterproofing need a piece of rubber the size of 1x1 (can be a little more).

One roll of roofing material, which is needed for waterproofing tanks.

For the device filter pads need 2 tons of sand and gravel. You can use the CBC, but the filtering quality will be worse, since the sand will quickly clog with silt. Remains of sand and gravel can be used as a bedding tank.

Step # 3 - prepare the pit for the installation of a septic tank

After all the materials have been collected and the drainage system has been removed from the house, it is possible to proceed with the construction of a septic tank.

It consists of two tanks. One of them is a settling tank for large fractions of wastewater, and the second is a filtering well for water flow. Its construction is detailed in the diagram below.

Mounting tires is easy. The most time-consuming process is digging a pit. The pit of the required size is difficult to dig by yourself. It may take about a week.

If the pit is developed manually, then with a depth of more than one and a half meters it will become difficult to extract soil from it.

You will need a bucket-type adaptation on the rope to raise the blade and a trolley to take out excess land. It is necessary to take care in advance about the place where excess soil will fall. The upper chernozem layer can be scattered around the garden.

Dug out the pit to clean the roots of plants. In the process of growth, the roots of trees such as poplar, can move the septic tank segments or break its tightness. To do this, use an ax.

After the roots are removed, you need to align the place where the bottom of the settler will be located. This is necessary for a snug fit of the rubber to the lower tire. The smoother the place, the better the fit and tightness.

The place where the bottom of the filtering well will be located should be further deepened to the width of one tire from Kirovtsy and the width of the sand cushion.

The thickness of the layer of filtering sandbag is from 30 to 60 cm. It is not necessary to level it, since after that a layer of gravel will follow.

If children live in the house, it is necessary to enclose the pit during the installation of the septic tank. This is necessary to prevent accidents, as the edges of the pit may crumble if you stand on them.

The child does not understand the degree of danger, so it is better to err.

Step # 4 - we put the tires for the sump

Step-by-step instructions for the installation of a settling tank:

1. Rubber fits on the prepared base.
2. The first tire is laid on the rubber bottom.
3. Bus and rubber joints are coated with liquid bitumen.
4. On the first tire fit the second.
5. The joint between the first and second tires is coated with liquid bitumen.
6. The first and second tires are fastened together with clamps or knitting wire.
7. The third tire is installed on the second one and is fixed in the same way with subsequent sealing of the joints with bitumen.
8. In the third tire with a grinder, a square hole is cut for the drain pipe from the house.
9. On the third tire fit tire from Kamaz.
10. Joints between the fourth and third tires are sealed with liquid bitumen.

The foundation pit with a settling tank does not need to be filled up until a supply sewer line has been inserted into it, and a pipe has been led out of it to the filter well.

Step # 5 - we put the tires for the filter well

Step by step instructions for installing the well:

1. The first tire is laid on the sandy bottom.
2. A rubble or gravel is poured into the tire.
3. On the first tire fit the second.
4. The joint between the first and second tires is coated with liquid bitumen.
5. The first and second tires are fastened together with clamps or knitting wire.
6. The third tire is installed on the second one and is fixed in the same way with subsequent sealing of the joints with bitumen.
7. Installs the fourth tire.
8. In the fourth tire with a grinder, a square hole is cut for the drain pipe.
9. On the fourth tire the tire from KamAZ keeps within.
10. The joints between the fourth and fifth tires are sealed with liquid bitumen.

Having finished the installation of the sump and the filtering well, it is necessary to proceed to the laying of the pipe between the tanks. The pipe should be 110 mm in diameter, because when it is used, a thick coating appears on the walls.

Over time, the lumen of the pipe will be less. If you trim the edges of the tires on the inside, the volume of the absorption well will increase significantly.

The dumping of gravel in the absorption pit is performed so that its lower layers are the smallest of the available fractions. With the climb, the fractional composition should be increased.

By this method, finer cleaning will be carried out at the exit of the gravel filter.

Step # 6 - connect the sump and filter well

To do this, grinder cut two holes. The exit of the pipe from the sump into the well should be located below the level of the drain pipe from the house.

The hole can be made at the bottom of the third tire or in the upper area of ​​the second. The pipe can be installed horizontally or under a slope of 15-20 degrees.

The places where the pipe connects to the tires need additionally seal. To do this, it is necessary to cut out small patches from roofing material and glue with liquid bitumen.

This is necessary so that the earth does not fall through the gaps from the pipe. When sealing is completed, you can proceed to the final stage.

The external sewer branch is necessarily equipped with a ventilation pipe, which is easier and more convenient to arrange in the lid of the filter well.

However, the best is considered to be out of the house or the area between the receiving and absorption wells. Best of all, if the ventilation is arranged at two points: at the exit of the building and above the filter well.

The distance between the walls of the pit and containers need to be filled with sand. Periodically have to go down and tamp the ground. This can be done with a small wooden post or a piece of carriage. It is better to take a pine, as it is easier.

The soil in the pit will settle immediately after the first rain, after which it will be necessary to additionally fill it with earth. After that, you can remove all the excess land on the site. For this you need a car or a bucket. Covers on a septic tank can be cut with a grinder from an iron sheet.

The service life of such a drainage system is more than 15 years. It will only be necessary to pump out the settler as it is filled with heavy fractions of sewage.

You may also need information about sewage pumps for forced pumping, reviewed here.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Roller with practical experience building a septic tank of tires:

Construction of a three-section septic tank:

Video about the best options for connecting sewer pipes:

We have described a cheap and reliable way to make a septic tank with our own hands. It protects soils and groundwater from pollution.. In addition, nothing but the cost is not inferior to the analogue of concrete rings.

Do you have a septic tank made of old tires on the site? Please tell us how difficult it was for you to build it and what nuances you had to face. Or did you notice a discrepancy in the instructions given in the article? Write us about this in the comments.