Increased noise, hum and vibration during washing machine operation indicate the wear of the bearing in the drum. Therefore, if you notice such symptoms - do not tighten. Immediately inspect parts and replace if necessary.
How to repair a washing machine with your own hands, you will learn in the article.
Content of the material:
1What causes the wear of bearings
- 1.1What are the causes of the breakdown?
- 1.2How to recognize a malfunction
2Preparation for repair
- 2.1What tools will be needed?
- 2.2How to choose spare parts
3Stages of repair
- 3.1Top cover
- 3.2Rear and front cover
- 3.3Elements at the top of the tank
- 3.4Back of the AGR
- 3.5Front dismantling
- 4Disassembling the tank
- 5How to replace the bearing
What causes the wear of bearings
The bearing ensures a uniform rotation of the tank and drum during washing. Following the worn bearing, the crosspiece and the tank may be damaged, which will lead to a complete stop of the work. You will have to change the tank that comes with the drum. Sometimes such a replacement is equal to the cost of a new washing machine.
What are the causes of the breakdown?
- Natural wear. The manufacturer declares that the service life of the bearing is from 5 to 7 years. With rare use, it can last up to 10 years.
- Water leak. This can happen due to a spoiled seal that protects the bearing from moisture. Water flushes out the grease, which leads to corrosion and gradual wear.
Remember! To make a replacement you need at once all the details: 2 bearings and an oil seal, otherwise the repair will not be of high quality.
How to recognize a malfunction
In addition to strong noise, you can see the error code on the display. You can also shake the drum by hand. If there is a backlash, the drum drifts away from the tank, which means that the reason is wear. The same result will be obtained if the drum rotations are non-uniform.
Preparation for repair
Replacing the drum bearing requires disassembly of the washing machine. Therefore, the CM needs to be prepared. For this:
- Disconnect the machine from the mains.
- Disconnect all communications. Before you unscrew the filler hose, prepare a container, because water will flow from it.
- Drain the water from the drain filter. To do this, open the door at the bottom of the front panel. It is fixed on snaps, you need to unscrew them with a screwdriver.
- Unscrew the filter by replacing the container.
Move the stiralk from the wall so that it is convenient for you to move around. If there is not enough space in the room, it may be better to move to the garage.
What tools will be needed?
- Set of slotted and cross screwdrivers.
- Horn and end keys.
- A hammer.
- Sealant or glue (if the tank is non-separable).
- Tool WD-40.
How to choose spare parts
For replacement you need to buy these parts:
- two bearings (front and rear);
- stuffing box.
All parts must be original, only for your CMA model. Unsuitable bearings will quickly wear out, which will result in a repeated replacement.
Stages of repair
Disassembly of the washing machine is the same for any brand and model. You need to start by removing the panels.
Using a screwdriver, unscrew the two screws at the back. Slide the lid away from yourself and remove it from the case.
Rear and front cover
To dismantle the back panel, unscrew all bolts along the perimeter. Dismantling the front panel is a bit more complicated. Operate consistently:
- Remove the detergent cuvette. Push the latch in the center and pull it toward you at the same time.
- Use a screwdriver to unscrew all screws on the control panel.
- Squeeze the plastic latches and remove the panel. The wiring can not be unfastened by placing the panel on top of the stylalki. But if you want to remove it, mark or photograph the location of the connectors in advance.
- Bend the sealing rubber on the door of the hatch. Remove the seal collar. Fit the cuff inside the tank.
- To the hatch door does not interfere with disassembly, it can also be removed. Unscrew the fastenings of the hinges and push the door to the side.
- Unscrew the two bolts of the lock UBL, unfasten its wiring.
- Remove the upper and lower screws of the front panel. Remove it.
Elements at the top of the tank
To remove the tank, you need to disconnect all the parts that are attached to it.
- Remove the bolts and remove the counterweight at the top.
- Raising the powder receptacle, unscrew the clamp of the branch pipe, remove it.
- Disconnect the fill valve wiring and unscrew the bolts that secure it to the body. Pull out the valve together with the powder collector.
- Disconnect the pressure sensor hose from the tank.
Back of the AGR
To remove the drive belt, pull the pulley by pulling it toward you. Now disconnect the pulley of the tank. Using a wrench, unscrew the central bolt. If it is stuck, drizzle with WD-40 and leave it on for a while. After unscrewing the bolt, remove the pulley from the shaft.
If the heater is in the rear of your stylalk, disconnect its wiring in the same way as the motor wiring. Unscrew the motor bolts and pull it out of the housing.
Unclip the drain pipe clamp. Pre-insert the container, as water can drain out of it. Separate the nozzle from the tank.
Remove the front counterweights by unscrewing the bolts. Disconnect the wires from the heater, it is under the tank. Now the tank is kept only on hooks and shock absorbers. Remove the shock absorber screws. Lift the tank upwards, removing from the hooks, and remove from the case.
Disassembling the tank
If the SMA tank is collapsible, it is enough to unscrew the bolts around the perimeter, unclip the latches and remove one half.
If the tank is not foldable, the drum will be harder to get. I'll have to do sawing. You will need a hacksaw and a cloth for metal - be sure to take it for metal, because they are thinner, so you will do the work neatly.
- Install the tank on the edge.
- Start cutting from a convenient location.
- After cutting into two halves, start dismantling the drum.
To make it easier to get the drum, hit the hammer several times with a hammer and it will fall out.
How to replace the bearing
- Remove the oil seal by screwing it with a screwdriver.
- Install the bit on the outer bearing race. Gently tap it with a hammer, moving around in a circle.
- After knocking out the bearing from the cage, just do the second part. If you have a special puller, then the task is easier.
Strip the seat. Lubricate the bearings, place in the socket. For them to sit evenly, use a bolt. Tap the bolt with a hammer, moving it along the outer edge of the part.
From above put an epiploon, grease its internal flute.
Replacement completed. It remains to assemble the car in reverse order.