Raspberry - half-shrub. On the rhizomes, substitution shoots are laid - next to the two-year-old stem or root offspring - on a new, grown-up area this year.
In the first summer, only leaves are formed on the stems (on repairing varieties - also flowers, but this is an exception inherent to repairing varieties) and kidneys are laid.
On the second - from the kidneys are formed fruiting branches, after which the stem dies. There are no three-year-old stems of raspberries..
Table of contents
- Reproduction of raspberry
- How to grow root siblings
- Root root cuttings
- Green cuttings (cuttings)
- How to multiply bush division
- How to dilute raspberry seeds
- Rooting the top
- Little tricks
- Features of planting seedlings in autumn and spring
Reproduction of raspberry
How to grow root siblings
Culture spreads over the square growth of the rhizome, from which grow new stems.
This will be the planting material, and the raspberry regeneration rate is high, the root offspring is planted immediately to a new location.
Survival is excellent.It is more convenient to replant in the autumn, after the termination of vegetation. However, this way (as an exception) can be propagated at any time of the year. It is better in cloudy or rainy weather: in the heat the seedlings will dry up.
Carrying with a clod of earth, on time, with watering and in good weather (more precisely, bad: rainy, cool, cloudy) the weather gives almost 100% survival rate.
Root root cuttings
Harvesting of cuttings is carried out in passing during the liquidation of the plantation, digging up of root offspring or specially.
Pieces of rhizome thicker than 2 mm (this minimum, better - more than 5 mm) and a length of 10-15 cm neatly tied in bundles and stacked in a shallow trench for the winter.
On top of the fallen leaves or other material, do not allow freezing. The best storage temperature is 0 +4 ˚С.
Can not be stored in a trench, but in a cold cellar, it is desirable - falling asleep with sand, earth, leaves. Do not overdry or overfill.
Planted in spring, in a trench up to 10 cm deep, as soon as possible. Lay out flat. From above it is desirable to cover with a film for warming up the soil and retaining moisture. Do not forget to water.
When green shoots appear, the film is removed. Survival in practice for most varieties is 60-80%.
Green cuttings (cuttings)
Cut the stems with a pruner, deepening it a few centimeters into the ground (do not forget to clean the tool field of work). Then cut into cuttings of 5-7 cm.
Some cutting is done in water. Uncomfortable, but the idea is good: while the co-conductive bundles are not clogged in place of the cut with air. Just come with bouquets of roses, if they want it to stand longer: update the cut under the water.
You can simply cut at a right angle, you can make the bottom slice oblique, the top - straight. On the oblique cut the roots grow better, and the straight line has a minimal area - there is no excess evaporation.
Cuttings put in a solution of the growth regulator - heteroauxin, indolyl-butyric acid, growth powder, corn root. Exposition - according to the instructions to the drug.
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The preparation of the solution is also: usually the preparations are sold not ready for use, but there are those that need to be diluted first in alcohol, only then in water.
Prepared cuttings are planted for rootingin a greenhouse or a greenhouse with a fogging plant. The main cause of poor survival is drying. Therefore it is desirable to keep the relative humidity below 100%.
If there is no greenhouse, cover the cuttings with glass or film. At the dacha, if you need a little seedlings, you can cover with glass jars or cut plastic bottles..
It is desirable to cut the plate half, this will reduce the evaporation of moisture. In any case, the soil should not dry out during the rooting period!
Not sooner than a month after planting, the cuttings can be transplanted to a place of permanent growth. With all the accuracy, with a clod of earth, in the right weather.
How to multiply bush division
On practiceThe method is applied to varieties giving little root siblings. For example, to Rubin Bulgarian. Or when transplanting very valuable varieties or hybrids.
Survival is excellent, but the multiplication factor is small, large labor costs with a small number of received bushes.
The essence of the method is clear from the title: a dug raspberry bush is divided into several parts, each planted separately. Carried in the autumn - after the end of vegetation or in the spring - before the beginning of the sap flow.
How to dilute raspberry seeds
The fruit of a raspberry is an assembled drupe, andseeds are suitable as a planting material. But it takes more labor, and the result is unpredictable: the characteristics of the variety (hybrid) are not preserved. In another way: from seedlings you can not get seedlings of the original variety.
Reproduction by seeds is practiced only in breeding work, but since geneticists do not need to search for information in popular articles, then the seed reproduction should not be described here in detail.
Rooting the top
The method consists of bending and droppingthe tip of the stem. It is possible to pin additionally, in order not to stand up, with a Y-shaped stick. Accelerates the formation of roots with a slight pruning before the kidney.
First, they reproduce in this way better than ordinary raspberries. Secondly, it is much worse to reproduce them by cuttings, they beat out more often. For example, the yield of Loganberry grains is about 10%..
The raspberry feature: if the base, central fraction of the bush is cut off and removed, a lot of root shoots are formed on the remaining part. The same - with a strong pruning.
This can be used if the goal is to get a lot of planting material, and not to harvest a large crop of berries this year..
Features of planting seedlings in autumn and spring
As with any planting (sowing) of a perennial culture,it is better to fill the soil with fertilizers before planting. Putting them in the bare ground is technically easier than on the growing plantation.
It is clear that in the following years it will be necessary to add nutrients, but it is advisable to make a significant part, especially for organics, when planting a plantation.
Raspberry does not like chlorine, therefore it is desirable to introduce chlorine free forms of potassium fertilizers. If there is no choice, chlorine-containing fertilizers are introduced in autumn.
The peculiarity of the HPC (soil absorption complex) is that it keeps chlorine badly, and part of the element leaves the soil in winter, without harming the bushes. The same applies not only to raspberries, but to all other crops.
And most importantly, it protects from drying out the small root hairs, ultimately improving the survival rate. The effect increases if the seedlings are waiting for a long transportation or storage.
Planting raspberries root siblings:
The method of reproduction is chosen at its own discretion, do not argue with fanatics of one way or another. But such a culture as raspberries is perfectly bred by rhizomes.
In practice, you should not suffer and cut the stems, it is easier to use pieces of rhizome, already with or without germinating stems.
Root scions or root cuttings are easily harvested and well established, this is the characteristic of raspberry. The remaining methods are for special conditions or varieties..