Correct reproduction of raspberries in spring, summer and autumn

Raspberry - shrub. On the rhizomes, replacement shoots are laid - next to a two-year-old stem or root suckers - on a new plot that has grown this year.

In the first summer, only leaves are formed on the stems (on remontant varieties there are also flowers, but this is an exception inherent in remontant varieties) and buds are laid. ig viewer

On the second, fruiting twigs are formed from the buds, after which the stem dies off. There are no three-year-old raspberry stalks.

Reproduction of raspberries

How to breed with root suckers

The culture is spreading over the area by the growth of rhizomesfrom which new stems grow.

This will be the planting material., moreover, the degree of regeneration in raspberries is high, we plant root suckers immediately in a new place.

The survival rate is excellent. It is more convenient to replant in autumn, after the end of the growing season. However, this method (as an exception) can be propagated at any time of the year. Better in cloudy or rainy weather: in the heat, the seedlings dry out.

Transferring with a clod of earth, on time, with watering and in good (more precisely, bad: rainy, cool, cloudy) weather gives almost 100% survival rate.

When raspberries are propagated by root suckers, the survival rate is excellent.

Breeding with root cuttings

Harvesting of cuttings is carried out along the way during the liquidation of the plantation, excavation of root suckers or on purpose.

Pieces of rhizome more than 2 mm thick (this is the minimum, better - more than 5 mm) and 10-15 cm long are neatly tied into bunches and placed in a shallow trench for wintering.

Fallen leaves or other material is poured on top, freezing must not be allowed. The best storage temperature is 0 +4 ˚С.

Can be stored not in a trench, but in a cold cellar, preferably - covered with sand, earth, leaves. Do not overdry or freeze.

Planted in spring, in a trench up to 10 cm deep, as soon as possible. Spread out flat. It is advisable to cover the top with a film to warm the soil and retain moisture. Do not forget to water.

When green sprouts appear, the film is removed. The survival rate in practice for most varieties is 60–80%.

When raspberries are propagated by horse cuttings, the survival rate is 60-80%

Green cuttings (cuttings)

Cut the stems with pruning shears, deepening it a few centimeters into the ground (do not forget to clean the tool in the field of work). Then we cut into cuttings of 5-7 cm.

Some of the cutting is done in water. It is inconvenient, but the idea is good: at the same time, the sap-conducting bundles are not clogged with air at the cut site. They do the same with bouquets of roses if they want it to stand longer: they renew the cut under water.

You can simply cut at right angles, you can make the lower cut oblique, the upper one straight. On an oblique cut, roots grow better, and a straight cut has a minimal area - there is no excess evaporation.

The preparation of the solution is the same: usually the drugs are sold unprepared for use, but there are those that must be diluted first in alcohol, only then in water.

Prepared cuttings are planted for rooting in a greenhouse or greenhouse with a fogging installation. The main reason for poor survival is drying out. Therefore, it is advisable to keep the relative humidity under 100%.

If there is no greenhouse, cover the cuttings with glass or foil. In the country, if you need few seedlings, you can cover with glass jars or cut plastic bottles.

It is advisable to cut the sheet plate in half, this will reduce moisture evaporation. In any case, the soil should not dry out during the rooting period!

Not earlier than a month after planting, the established cuttings can be transplanted to a place of constant growth. With all neatness, with a clod of earth, in suitable weather.

When raspberries are propagated by green cuttings, the soil should not dry out during the rooting period.

How to propagate by dividing a bush

On practice the method is applied to varieties that give few root suckers. For example, to Ruby Bulgarian. Or when transplanting very valuable varieties or hybrids.

The survival rate is excellent, but the reproductive rate is low., large labor costs with a small number of bushes obtained.

The essence of the method is clear from the name: the dug out raspberry bush is divided into several parts, each is planted separately. Carried out in the fall - after the end of the growing season or in the spring - before the start of sap flow.

How to breed raspberries with seeds

The raspberry fruit is a composite drupe, and seeds are quite suitable as planting material. But more labor is required, and the result is unpredictable: the characteristics of the variety (hybrid) are not preserved. In another way: seedlings of the original variety cannot be obtained from drupes.

Seed propagation is practiced only during breeding work., but since there is no need for geneticists to look for information in popular articles, seed reproduction should not be described in detail here.

Rooting apex

The method consists in bending and dropping the top of the stem. You can additionally pin it, so as not to rise, with a Y-shaped stick. A little pruning in front of the bud speeds up root formation.

Firstly, it is they who reproduce in this way better than ordinary raspberries. Secondly, it is worse to propagate them by cuttings, they are cut out much more often. For example, the output of Logangeberry cuttings is about 10%.

Little tricks

Raspberries have a peculiarity: if you cut and remove the base, central fraction of the bush, many root shoots are formed on the remaining part. Ditto for heavy pruning.

This can be used if the goal is to get a lot of planting material, and not to collect a large harvest of berries this year.

With strong pruning, raspberries develop many root shoots

Features of planting seedlings in autumn and spring

As with any planting (sowing) of a perennial crop, it is better to fill the soil with fertilizers before planting. Putting them into bare ground is technically easier than into a growing plantation.

It is clear that in subsequent years it will be necessary to add nutrients, but it is advisable to add a significant part, especially organic matter, when laying a plantation.

Raspberries don't like chlorine, therefore, it is desirable to introduce chlorine-free forms of potash fertilizers. If there is no choice, then chlorine fertilizers are applied in the fall.

The peculiarity of the HPA (soil absorption complex) is that it does not hold chlorine well, and part of the element will leave the soil during the winter without harming the bushes. The same applies not only to raspberries, but also to all other crops.

And most importantly, it will protect small root hairs from drying out, ultimately improving survival. The effect increases if the seedlings are to be transported or stored for a long time.

Planting raspberries with root suckers:

Everyone chooses the breeding method at their own discretion, do not argue with fanatics of one way or another. But such a culture as raspberries is perfectly bred by rhizomes.

In practice, you should not suffer and cut the stems, it is easier to use pieces of rhizome, already with sprouted stems or without them.

Root suckers or root cuttings are easily harvested and take root well, such is the peculiarity of raspberries. The rest of the methods are for special conditions or varieties.