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Spathiphyllums, descendants from the humid South American tropics, where plants can be found in dense undergrowth, on marshes and banks of reservoirs, have got accustomed well and in room conditions. Plants from the family of Aroids in nature are entirely dependent on the presence of heat, moisture and scattered light.
For rapid active growth and flowering, they need a loose, fairly nutritious soil, and if these conditions observed, spathiphyllum feels great and on the windowsill, without requiring any special, time-consuming care.
Peculiarities of growing and possible problems
The fact that the plant is comfortable in the created environment, says:
- dark green color of pointed lanceolate leaves;
- Regular flowering spathiphyllum, accompanied by the appearance of an elongated inflorescence-cob, as if wrapped in an elegant white bract;
- the appearance of new leaves;
- rapid overgrowth of the bush.
And yet the flower can sometimes seriously disturb the owner. Errors made in the care of spathiphyllum, disease and pest infestation can not but affect the state of health and appearance of the plant.
The first to mark the problem are the leaves that begin to turn yellow, blacken and dry. If you do not take timely measures, the inflorescences fade, and if the roots are affected, there is a risk and at all to lose a green, healthy bush.
Quite often, the growers face the problem when the spitfillum black ends of the leaves, how to help the plant and what needs to be done in this situation? The reasons for this behavior of the plant may be several. The most common is excessive moistening of the soil, because of which the root system is poorly developed, and the already existing roots grow black and rot at the growth points. This can not but affect the health of the overground part of the bush. The greens wilt, and the tips of the leaves of the spathiphyllum dry, becoming black and lifeless.
Errors of care
If the trouble happened after the temperature in the room decreased, it is reasonable to assume that the pot was simply poured, and now it is necessary to reduce the frequency of watering and try to remove excess moisture from the soil. For this, moss sphagnum, absorbing moisture from the soil surface, can be used. When the damage is not limited to the dried ends of the spathiphyllum leaves, and the roots are affected, changing the schedule of watering and cutting of blackened foliage, will have to inspect the underground part of the bush, as well as the grounds petioles.
Roots are carefully washed, cut blackened and treat healthy areas with coal powder. Then the plant can be planted in the ground, remembering that it must be necessarily loose, because the blackening leaves are more often observed in spathiphyllums growing in heavy, becoming very dense after watering soil. Do not forget about the powerful layer of drainage, which provides the outflow of excess moisture from the roots.
Damaged plant and soil under it is recommended to be treated with a fungicide in order to prevent the risk of developing parasitic fungi.
Finding out the reasons why the spathiphyllum blacken the tips of the leaves, and what to do with the plant that has lost its appeal, one must also remember the temperature of the bush. For better health, spathiphyllum should be kept in a room closed from drafts, where the temperature in winter time will not drop below -10 ° C, depending on the variety of the plant. And the optimal daytime temperature in summer is 20-29 ° C. At night, a reduction of 2-4 degrees is permissible.
If spathiphyllum is in uncomfortable conditions for him, for example, in a brightly lit window, burns of leaf plates can not be avoided.
Such spots also have a brown or almost black shade, especially when the bush is seriously damaged by sunlight. To solve this problem most easily. Kashpo with a plant is rearranged to where the sun is more sparing, or between the glass and the pot they arrange a semi-transparent screen obscuring the spathiphyllum.
What if the tips of the spathiphyllum leaves turn black due to large doses of fertilizers?
Interior plants require almost four times less fertilizer than those grown in greenhouses, especially with the use of hydroponic systems.
Before the sale, greenhouse plants are planted in transport pots, introducing a special complex of long-acting fertilizers under the roots. Such substances with regular watering can ensure the preservation of the bush up to 4-6 weeks.
And then the owner of the flower should carry out feeding alone. And here you can not overdo it, otherwise an excessive amount of fertilizers will cause why the spathiphyllum blackened leaves, which yesterday were still healthy with gloss and saturated color. In addition, spathiphyllum reacts with growth retardation, necrosis not only on leaf plates, but also on part of the root system. And the excess leaves are more acutely responsive to mature leaves.
Since the problem concerns both the green part of the plant and its underground organs, all affected areas need to be inspected and removed, and in the ground, if possible, reduce the concentration of fertilizers. After transplantation, spathiphyllum is treated with epin solution, and then a routine fertilizing schedule is set for the plant.
From early spring until the beginning of autumn, spathiphyllum is fertilized twice a month, alternating mineral and organic supplements, and microelements are applied foliarly. For the winter, when the plant is in relative rest, the bush should not be fertilized, and the watering is reduced so as not to cause rotting of the roots and blackening of the tips of the spathiphyllum leaves.
Only with proper care and attentive attitude, even such an unpretentious flower, like spathiphyllum, will regularly bloom and not cause trouble to the owner.
