Replacement of the temperature sensor in the washing machine

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The temperature sensor in the design of the washing machine is responsible for the correct heating of the water according to the specified parameters and switching off the heater when necessary. And if the styaralka ceases to heat water or overheats it, then the thermosensitive element may be the culprit.

Checking and replacing the temperature sensor in the washing machine is the topic of our article. You are waiting for useful tips, step-by-step instructions and recommendations.

Content of the material:

  • 1What are the sensors
    • 1.1Gas-filled sensor
    • 1.2Bimetal sensor
    • 1.3Thermistor
  • 2How to check and replace the temperature sensor
    • 2.1Extract the gas-filled element
    • 2.2Replace the bimetallic part
  • 3What signs indicate a breakdown

What are the sensors

In the AGR, any of the three possible types of sensors can be provided:

  • gas-filled;
  • bimetallic;
  • thermistor.

Each of these types has its own working principle and its own features of checking the operability and replacement.

Gas-filled sensor

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In its design, two parts are provided. The first is a metal "tablet" with a diameter of 2 to 3 cm and a height of up to 3 cm. The second part of the element is made in the form of a copper tube, which is connected to an external regulator on the control unit CM. The part is in the inside of the tank, touching directly with the water - so its temperature is measured. Inside such a sensor, a gas known to everyone as freon (circulating in refrigerators) circulates. At a temperature action, the gas contracts and expands, breaking and closing the contacts connected to the TEN.

Bimetal sensor

This is a detail of the same shape as the previous one, with a difference only in height - up to 1 cm. Inside the part is a bimetallic plate. During the heating of water, this plate arches, closing the contacts. As a result, water stops heating when the set temperature is reached.

Thermistor

Such a temperature sensor is installed in all the latest models of machines. If your CM is not more than 7 years old, it is likely that it will have the same element. It looks like a cylinder of small sizes up to 1 cm in diameter and up to 3 cm in length. From the previous it is distinguished by the type of attachment - it is installed on the heater itself. The sensor operates not on a mechanical principle, but due to resistance oscillations during the heating of water.

How to check and replace the temperature sensor

Before you test the performance of the sensor, you need to disassemble the body of the machine. Your job is to disassemble the housing and get the thermostat out of the heater: so you make it easier for yourself to check. In 4 cars out of 5 heating elements and a thermistor are under the tank, therefore it is not difficult to go to it. Before removing the sensor:

  1. Open the back panel of the washing machine by unscrewing 4 or 5 bolts around the perimeter of the lid.
  2. Remove the wiring connecting the element to the control board. Take a photo or mark the wires to collect everything as it was.
  3. Loosen the heater attachment - the retaining nut is located in the center.

Now remove the thermostat. Taking out the sensor, it should be checked with a multimeter and the resistance of the part measured. Before you ring the element, set up the tester: select the resistance measurement mode. Further:

  • Place the test leads on the terminals. Standard values ​​for the 20-degree temperature: 6000 Ohm.
  • Heat the element in hot water. Pull it out, again attach the test leads and watch for changes on the tester screen. If the sensor is OK, then the indicator at 50-degree temperature will drop to about 1350 ohms.

If you find a breakdown, the part must be replaced. Pick up a sensor suitable for the heater of your car model.

Important! The thermistor can not be repaired. Do not attempt to disassemble and repair it.

Extract the gas-filled element

To remove the sensor with freon, you need to unscrew not only the back cover, but also the front panel with the control unit. So you will ensure access to the outside of the thermostat.

Now act like this:

  1. There is a wiring harness behind the body of the washing machine. Carefully remove the insulation and, using a thin spike, pick up the seal covering the copper tube to remove it.
  2. Now, slightly press down the base of the element so that it easily descends from the groove. The tank has a special hole - through it, remove the part.
  3. Remove the wire, and you can check.

The main failure of sensors of this type is the failure of a tube with freon. A leak starts, and the item does not cope with its functions. If you find any signs of leakage, you need to change the parts. Go to the nearest repair store or order via the Internet a temperature sensor (with a switch), install instead of the old one. Assembly of the machine is carried out according to the reverse scheme.

Replace the bimetallic part

Like a gas-filled, bimetallic sensor requires access to the tank. After disassembling the body of the machine, disconnect the thermostat wiring and, using a tester, check the resistance. After warming the sensor, again follow the indicators. In the absence of significant fluctuations, replacement is needed.

Important! Bimetallic sensors fail due to wear of the plate. But they are not subject to repair. The replacement is easy - get a suitable analog and install instead of the old one.

What signs indicate a breakdown

In order to understand that the malfunctions in its operation are related to the thermal sensor, please note the following features:

  • When choosing any program with any temperature mode, the water is heated to the maximum possible temperature (boiling).
  • When washing, the styrene body is heated, and steam is poured out of the open hatch.

One can not hesitate! The failure of the sensor entails the exit of their heater. To change both the heater and the sensor is more expensive and more complicated.

Replacement of a thermostat of any type is entirely possible with your own hands and without calling the master. The main thing - to properly remove the part, find a quality and original analog and connect it correctly.

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