Apple tree is the most popular fruit treenot only in the central part of Russia, but now in Siberia.
Thanks to the selection, several frost-resistant varieties were bred, but the question is still relevant for the gardener,at what time of the year is it better to plant this crop.
.Table of contents
- When is it better to plant an apple tree?
- Planting in autumn and its features
- How to plant a tree in spring
- Basic Errors
- When disembarking
- With care
- How to choose the right seedlings
- Site preparation
- Technique of planting a tree
- Care of the seedlings
- Farewell to the beginning gardener
When is it better to plant an apple tree?
Climatic features of the country's regions can limit not only the selection of apple varieties, but also oblige the gardener to adhere to a strict planting schedule.
So,for those living in the southern and central regions of the country, the time of landing of any variety, usually fall.
Eastern Siberia and Primoryewas a place not the most favorable for the growth of apple trees, but thanks to new varieties, it quite well takes root in the spring, closer to the middle of May.
There are several resistant to frost varieties. These are seedlings of young trees Antonovka, Medunitsy, Sorceress, Autumn gift, Young naturalist, Bessemyanka Michurinsky and Silver Hoof.
Planting in autumn and its features
Depending on the region, the cold can be felt in different periods. The fact of the onset of frosts is the starting point for planting an apple tree.
The best way to determine the moment,when planting an apple tree, all work with planting trees is best done only after it is finished.
Usually,for rooting a tree it will take from 15 to 25 days depending on the variety, in the period from September 20 to October 20.
That is, you have almost a month to plant even an apple orchard, but now tell you about the features of the autumn planting.
If we consider mainly the severe landing areas, here there will be one small drawback, in terms of additional work.
butthe autumn version has an undeniable benefit:
- correctly planted saplings in the cold period are very good at rooting and growing, and with the arrival of spring they sharply start to grow;
- later in the spring for the roots of the tree there will always be more benefit from the damp earth with rotted compost;
- Autumn planting contributes to the development of immunity to frost in the tree of the apple tree.
How to plant a tree in spring
If, for some objective reasons, you did not manage to plant the apple tree in the fall, there is always a spare option. Of course, he will make a little hurry, becauseTime to disembark you will be much less than in autumn.
This period usually lasts less than a month, you should hurry upfinish work by mid-May. And again, we will point to the positive and negative moments of landing.
Let's start with a good,In the spring, there is no longer any need to fear the freezing of the roots of the tree. However, you will face a number of problems when choosing a spring planting:
- for the winter the moisture goes to the ground, and the new tree will have to be systematically and abundantly watered;
- planting material is always more expensive and it is more difficult to find quality even in nurseries.
The soil dries quickly in the spring, which will negatively affect the spring planting of the apple tree, if it does not maintain moisture at the same level.
Fix the result will help crushed dry grass, or humus, which will need to be laid in the bottom of the trunk of the apple tree. So you will avoid the drying of the top layer and the rapid growth of weed grass.
.Basic Errors
What can be called a serious mistake in planting an apple tree? Most of the violations of gardeners are still allowed when planting, and only a part when caring for a tree. Here are the most important points
When disembarking
Planting the apple-tree too deep into the pitrude, and, perhaps, the most important about the oversight of budding gardeners.
The tree will grow very slowly, as the boundary of the landing relative to the root neck (the stem section from the root to the crown) is not correctly defined.
Beginners, buying from the nursery a bush that can additionally have an inoculation above the root neck, up to about 8 cm, often confuse them, planting a tree to it.
The norm for planting is the location of the root neck at ground level or a couple of centimeters higher.
Where is the root collar located on the trunk? It is not difficult to determine by carrying a wet rag over it. So, where the color will change from green to brown, there is that same border.
With care
Watering the tree, including when planting, abundantly with mineral fertilizers will destroy the microflora, in which positive bacteria are no longer able to survive.
.The same can be said for the organic top dressing of the tree. In no caseDo not use fresh or badly rotted manure.
By introducing such a bait, you will doom the apple trees to death, since ammonia and hydrogen sulphide emitted by fresh manure displace oxygen from the soil under the root.
.How to choose the right seedlings
The main goal of the choice is the correct determination of the state of the seedling, that is, its suitability for growth and effective fruit bearing.
Misunderstanding of the main signs of a good tree will lead to the fact that the fruit tree either will develop too long, or wither.
Size and number of apple rootshave a tremendous impact on her engraftment. In pursuit of a perennial huge shrub-seedling, in the hope of growing a powerful apple tree, can lead to sad consequences.
Pay attention to the state and quantitythem in the root system. A large seedling, of course, has a lot of them, and is mostly damaged, since they are grown in nurseries and are excavated mechanized way (plow).
Having planted such a bush, it will be necessary to cut all branches of the tree crown urgently, otherwise the branches will dry up because of the broken roots or they will get sick.
The one-year-old root is small and always whole. Well, one should not rush to buy an apple tree with an open root system before the planting time, which is equally true for any planting season. The bush simply does not get accustomed, but it will be difficult to save it.
There is one way out:lower it to the basement before landing, where the temperature is maintained from 0 to -40 ° C.
.Site preparation
First we choose a suitable place and dig a hole. Preparation for disembarkation may differ depending on the nature of the land treatment and its composition.
As a general rule,planting a tree in a pit can only after 10-12 of it after preparing a place. The pit must be such that the root can easily intervene in it without bending.
During this time, the soil will warm up and settle, and the root will not fall below the root neck. An exception is autumn planting, so it takes 3-4 weeks.
For each bush, cook at least 800 grams of ash and fertilizer. If it is humus, then no more than one bucket. The dose of mineral fertilizers is very small, usually it is not more than 1 kg.
And once again about the types of soil, since this will depend on the training method:
- with fertile soil and careful loosening, the pit measures 35 cm in depth and 45 in width;
- with a heavy soil 70 in depth and a meter in width;
- if it is a land that has gravel and clay in its composition, then try to dig a hole 90 cm, and make its width a little more than 120 cm.
Prepared the ground fall asleep in a hole and once again loosen. Then leave the groove for the root and wait for the landing time.
.Technique of planting a tree
The young tree is cut off all dried up shoots. Usually it is rational to leave no more than five. After that, a wooden peg is knocked out into the pit for a root by 2/3 of its length, and then the root of the tree is lowered.
Then the ground is gradually buried in a hole and rammed layer by layer. So you need to do almost to the very edge of the pit, leaving a pit to hold water.
To avoid breaking the tree trunk,tie it with string to peg. Only after this procedure, you can drench heavily under the root, up to about 5 buckets of water, depending on the time of planting.
In the remaining pit should be mulched with sawdust or humus.
.Care of the seedlings
Cutting dry branches and systematized timely wateringare components of successful apple growing and wood resistance to frost.
Saplings of the first year should be watered 3-4 times in summer, pouring up to 4 buckets of water on their root, provided there is no drought.
You may be interested in our publications:
- How to grow an apple from a seed or a branch at home?
- When to collect apples for storage? And how to do it right.
- 5 ways to freeze apples at home.
Constantlyloosen the soil under the bush and prevent the growth of weed.
If flowers appear in the second year, they are usually removed, since it is a void. After the first receipt of fruits, prune the branches, removing the dry ones.
Until the middle of summerit is important to do at least five nitrogen dressings, based on mineral and biological fertilizers.
Farewell to the beginning gardener
We hope thatthese simple tips will help you not only competently drop the apple tree, but also regularly receive a good harvest of fruits.
To do this, annually monitor the condition of the tree, cut off diseased branches and do not forget to water on time.
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