Today, in virtually every apartment building, you can find a washing machine brand Whirlpool, and not one. We have both assemblies distributed: Slovakia and Italy. The latter are bought less often and are more expensive, but the machines assembled in Slovakia can be found in all household appliances stores.
Perhaps, it was the European assembly standards that helped the Virpul machines to prove themselves as machines of high quality and enviable durability. That's why repairs are rarely required, but if there are breakages, then often repairing washing machines Whirlpool (Virpul) can be done by yourself.
Content of the material:
- 1Typical malfunctions of machines Whirlpool
- 2The most vulnerable parts of the Virpul machines
- 3The water does not leave the tank of the Whirlpool machine
- 4The Whirlpool machine hangs, cold water when washing
- 5Flow in the hatch area of the Virpul machine
Typical malfunctions of machines Whirlpool
If we enumerate thoroughly all possible failures of the AGR, we will have to write a whole manual in 10 volumes. Therefore, we will focus only on the faults typical for this brand.
We used data from reputable service centers to create valuable instructions for those who were going to do the repair of the Virpul washing machine with their own hands.
The most common failures:
- After washing the water is in the tank.
- The wash modes hang, they do not start at all, or the programs are malfunctioning.
- All washing modes are carried out in cold water.
- CMA flows in the hatch area.
Important! Behind these seemingly harmless malfunctions may be a serious breakdown. They need to be eliminated immediately, so as not to break the SM completely.
The most vulnerable parts of the Virpul machines
Based on the problems described above, it is possible to identify the most vulnerable places of the Virpul washing machines. Many modern models have a self-diagnosis system that will tell you with a DTC what part is out of order.
But what if the machine does not turn on at all, and there is nothing that would help you find out the cause of the breakdown? Listen to the advice of experienced repairmen, they are sure that the most vulnerable parts in the machine Virpul are:
- Thermoelectric heater - heater.
- The engine and its movable elements.
- Cuff of the hatch, nipples.
- Controller (control module).
Attention! Machines Whirlpool, like any other machines, "suffer" clogs. Both filters and hoses become clogged. If the cleaning is carried out in a timely manner (3-4 times a year), it is possible to avoid breakdowns of the drainage system and water filling.
The water does not leave the tank of the Whirlpool machine
You probably know the situation when you loaded the laundry in the tank, chose a convenient washing routine, went to work in the kitchen, then came to get the laundry, and there was a disaster. The car buggy: it is full of water and foam, washing is not over, the laundry is wet.
You restart the program, but all in a circle - the program of washing is not performed, because the water remains in the drum. This problem is caused by one of three factors:
- Accumulated debris in the drain pipe or drain filter.
- Blockage of the drain hose or obstruction in the sewage system.
- Breakage of the pump electric pump (pump).
However, before you devote time to finding the reasons for the failure, prepare for this your SMA:
- Turn off the power.
- Manually drain the remaining water in the drum. This can be done quickly using the emergency drain hose - it is usually located near the drainage filter.
- Place a container or bed cloth on the floor - and there will flow out the waste water.
Next, extract the waste water filter:
- Place a rag or place the container under the hatch behind which the filter is located.
- Unscrew the plug counter-clockwise.
- Clean and rinse the unit under the tap.
- Install everything in place.
- Twist the drain hose, clean and rinse it, replace it.
It will not hurt to check the sewage system for blockage.
To conduct all the actions, you do not need to know how to disassemble a Virpul washing machine - it's an easy job that any user can do.
If your actions did not help to get rid of the problem, the drainage system is clean, there is no clogging in the sewage system, and the washer still does not drain the water from the tank, it still has to be disassembled. The true cause of breakage can be hidden in the pump and drain pipe.
Important! Virtually all models of the Whirlpool are arranged in such a way that up to the pump and branch pipe can only be accessed from the bottom. Have to turn the car on its side.
How to find, check and clean the pump and nozzle:
- Remove the detergent drawer.
- Disconnect the machine from all systems: electricity and water supply, sewerage.
- Turn the SMA over, putting it on the side wall.
- Unscrew bolts and remove the bottom.
- Armed with a tester and measure the resistance of the pump.
- After finding the problem, change the pump.
- If the pump has nothing to do with it, then proceed further.
- Loosen the water drain hose clamps.
- Remove the branch pipe.
- Clean and rinse it.
- Install the pipe back.
This breakdown is typical for machines with any type of loading. The device of the washing machine The whirlpool with vertical loading is slightly different than that of conventional SM, but it is necessary to solve the problem with it according to the same scheme.
The Whirlpool machine hangs, cold water when washing
Often after the start of the washer, the control panel begins to behave inadequately: the display blinks, and all the LEDs flash with it. Also, the program you selected may not work.
If this is your case, then immediately turn off the CM, and wait 60 seconds. After turn it on and if the problem persists, you should call the wizard, as the control module is corrupted, and fixing your own hands is almost impossible. You will need not only the control scheme of the Virpul washing machine control module, but also the experience in such repair.
If the styalka does not want to heat water and does not wash clothes properly, then it is possible to determine the breakdown and perform independent repairs without the help of special devices.
The surest reason for this behavior is the failure of the thermistor (temperature sensor),but could fail and TEN. Whatever it was, it's worth checking both items in the complex. Then act on this simple scheme:
- Turn the machine so that the front wall was in front of you - so it will be more convenient to work.
- Remove the bolts and remove the back cover.
- Next, remove the bracket by unscrewing the bolts so that it does not interfere with the heater.
- Immediately the whole TEN you will not see - under the tank you can see only its tail, to which there are four wires, two of which are connected to the heater itself, and the rest to the thermal sensor.
- Remove all wires.
- Take the tester and measure the resistance of the contacts of the temperature sensor. Check the indicators at room temperature, and then - heat the sensor in warm water, they must differ significantly if the sensor is functional.
- Next, measure the resistance on the heating element itself. Its normal performance is 20-40 ohms.
With this problem, the fault is likely to be confirmed, so you'll have to replace the sensor (which is simpler) or the heater.
Important! If you do not have a tester on hand, immediately remove the TAN from the tank by unscrewing the fasteners. You quickly determine the malfunction, if the heater is covered with a thick layer of scale, or dark spots have gone on it. If the scale is very slightly, then the heater may not have burnt, but if the water stone is 1 cm thick or more, there is a breakdown.
With your own hands, you easily change the heater as follows:
- Contacts and wires have already been removed, so remove the plastic guard later.
- Unscrew the fastener - it is in the center of the shank.
- Gently pulling on the contacts, loosening the heater in different directions, remove the heater. The noise will be a rubber gasket, so be patient - there's nothing to be done.
- After taking out the heater, remove the gasket.
Important! Mechanics recommend to install a new gasket together with a new heater, as leakage due to wear of the gasket is fatal for this important unit.
- In that hole, where there was a heater, there must be rubbish and scum, so do a general cleaning; only after this you can put a gasket.
- Install a new heater, tighten the bracket.
- Reinstall the plastic cover.
- Connect the contacts to the heater and the sensor.
- Restore the location of the bracket, and finally mount the machine panel back.
Flow in the hatch area of the Virpul machine
When water is flowing in the washing or rinsing mode from under the door of the Virpul washing machine, it begins imperceptibly - at first a couple of drops, then a thin trickle, and sooner or later it does begin flood.
You do not need a diagram of the Virpul washing machine to find the cuff - the culprit of the breakdown. It can be seen with the naked eye - this is a large rubber pad in your CM. It is located throughout the inner perimeter of the hatch, and its main task is not to let the water pass.
The most vulnerable place of the seal is at the bottom, because dirty water often stays there. If you do not clean up periodically, the cuff may burst. It is enough to slightly touch the worn sealant so that it breaks - then the leakage can not be avoided.
Important! Do not use a typewriter with a torn cuff - it can not hold water. If a breakout is found, the cuff should be changed URGENTLY.
If you are used to repairing at home, then remove the old one and mount a new cuff.
Dismantling the old cuff:
- Open the hatch cover as wide as possible.
- Armed with a slotted screwdriver and pick up the wire clamp - it is located over the cuff.
- Having pierced the yoke, draw a screwdriver under it and move it around in a circle, until you come across a connector with fasteners.
- Loosen the clamp and remove it.
- Take the seal with both hands and pull it toward you to remove it.
For users: buy cuffs from authorized dealers. The original part will fit into the slot of the hatch clearly up to a millimeter and protect the tank from leaks.
Mounting the new cuff:
- Unpack the part and insert it into the groove.
Important! Do not use anything sharp, so as not to tear the seal - all do ONLY hands.
- Once the elastic band is in its place, quickly wrap the clamp and tighten it.
- Check that the sunroof is normally closed and opened.
- Start the washing in the test mode.
- If under the typewriter is dry, congratulations, you coped "perfectly well"!
If the water flows in a typewriter of a vertical type, then the reason may not be at all in the hatch - it is in it from above. Most likely, you need to disassemble the washing machine Whirlpool with vertical loading to find out the reasons for the leak.
There are a number of other reasons why a styalka can flow:
- The pump is running.
- Depressurization of the tank - a crack, a hole, corrosion.
- Damage or drainage connections are damaged.
- Depressurization of the connection of the water inlet.
- Depressurization of the nozzles connecting the inlet valve and the cuvette for the powder.
- Worn gland wear.
- Discharge in the hopper of the dispenser.
- Drain tube wear.
Most of these failures are simple, and to repair the leak, you can repair yourself. The most important thing in this case is to properly diagnose the problem. DTCs will help you with this.
On the scoreboard, these error codes can burn: F01 or FH, F02 or FA, F03 or FP, F14, FDL, FDU.
If you still have questions about repairing the breakdowns of Virpul washing machines, read our other materials, in which we thoroughly analyze each individual malfunction.
In this article we have considered only typical breakdowns that can be eliminated without the help of a repairman. And if you are wondering how to change the bearing on a Virpul washing machine, see an additional video:.