How to connect a light switch

Today we give a series of tips on how to connect a light switch, if an event took by surprise. During the review, the issues of installation of podozetnikov, preparation of the solution, and others. You will learn how to connect a single-button light switch, if the wires are too short, we will show how to modify the design according to your own needs.

If the old under the light switch is not suitable

Turn off the lights in the apartment before starting the operations.220 V are able to shake well. It's nice to have a flashlight on your forehead so that your hands are free.

switch. Dismantling the old sub-socket, preparing the light switch accessories for the

installation. First of all, you need to insulate the wires. The armature of the walls is sometimes grounded, which is fraught with electric shock. Pleasant little, if the current passes through a small segment of the body. Using a screwdriver indicator, we recommend finding the phase, then marking the core insulation with a marker. In the picture, the green wire is marked with a neutral wire, and there is no grounding( this will slightly interfere with the correct train of thought about how to connect a lamp if you can see three wires).Indeed, for most light switches branch is not needed. A zero wire is usually marked blue.

Some people live in old Soviet-built houses. Housing then passed a lot, but the interior work often did not differ excellent quality: crooked tile, wires sticking out of the walls, linoleum of unknown origin. It is not surprising when a section of horizontal reinforcement is found in the sub-floor. The seen causes difficulty. The old light switch no longer suits, but the new one does not crawl inside:

• The armature passes horizontally, eliminating the possibility of shoving a light switch into the old lighting case.
• When installing the builders have tried their best. In the lower part there is a steel conductor, they pulled out a flexible old podrozetnik with an ellipse and shoved the light switch. Fortunately, the design of fasteners allowed. On the new models shown below in the photo, the struts are short.

The design has changed, the ability to connect light in the area covered by this point has disappeared. An old stand-up torn from the wall is shown in the first photo. Often planted on the solution, on the back edge has a tooth in a circle. Already at this stage, people will face certain difficulties. Additional nuance - to continue the plot does not always work: noisy, for a long time, it is possible to chop off the excess. We offer to use a nail catcher. Cut the plastic with a knife, melt with a soldering iron.

On the old podrozetnik cut round hole on the back wall. From there pass into the power cord. The new( see photo) design is different. Pay attention, detachable sections are located diagonally, which is not always convenient. For example, in the wall there is a vertical channel, in the future we assume to drag the wiring again, unnecessary angles are not needed here. It is possible to modify the case of the underside with a drill, as shown in the photo. Hole perform the desired diameter in a convenient location.

drill Break off the detachable sections so that the sub-lug is tighter in solution, not a good idea. For the simple reason that the extra cement inside is not needed, this complicates the connection of the light switch and the positioning of the body inside the bottom plate. Pay attention, you have to remove the spacers. They interfere, and we will put the light switch on the standard screws. Finishing works were not conducted, there is no chance that the fasteners are smeared with building mixtures. Remove the spacers from the light switch, as shown in the picture.

Finally, the front of the case is removed, so as not to interfere with installation. For example, it will not be possible to screw the light switch to the front panel. Usually the platband stands on plastic teeth, there are other options of fastenings. At this preparatory stage is completed, sometimes requires refinement.

Preparation of a hole in the wall for installation of an

floor plate

We are preparing to consider the case when the armature of the plate crosses the hole in the wall for the installation of the light switch. Please note that the metal construction is usually recessed inside, which makes the installation of a light switch much more complicated. Sawing with a hacksaw will not work, the disc of the grinder does not reach, the file will be left for prisoners of dungeons. In this case, the valve needs to be slightly arched outward in the middle. Thin moment: if you immediately pull the nail puller onto yourself, it is easy to break a part of the slab together with the finish. This did not want to.

sticking out of the depth of the armature. It will be correct to capture the reinforcement between the horns of the nail puller, and bend the weight in the right direction. Assistant - if available - will press the rod at the ends. Enough a couple of centimeters to drive grinder reached the steel. Then in 2-3 seconds an incision is made, the ends of the reinforcement are bent at the edges, as shown in the picture. Then it is allowed to saw as convenient. As a result, an approximately even hole in the wall is formed, where a new underlay is placed.

At the beginning, it was mentioned that the builders arched the construction with an ellipse. We'll have to not just put the underlay on the putty, but knead the real mortar. In order to fill the voids on the sides.

Kneading the mortar under the installation of a podozetnik in the wall

Please note that it is possible to screw the podozetnik to the wooden walls. When it comes to concrete, it is not always possible to stick in the dowel-nails. In the latter case, it is proposed to knead the solution. We propose to use lime-cement mixture. Pure lime does not have too much strength, and gypsum additives are unacceptable where there is high humidity( bathroom points).At home, lime-cement mortar is recognized as universal.

Proportions are highly dependent on the brand of cement. Detailed information readers can find on specialized sites. There are many recipes known, we chose an example, based on the presence on the hands of fluff and cement brand M500.The solution is chosen brand between M150 and M200, so as not to be afraid of water. It is clear that the mixture cannot reach the present concrete, but the task is simply to put a floor plate, no more. Making the light switch steady is the main goal of the event.

We make kneading as follows:

1. First, prepare the lime paste. To do this, simply add water to the fluff. The resulting mixture is similar in texture to the dough. The substrate should be left for a day in a tightly closed container.
2. The next day we begin to collect sand. In our case, the lime paste refers to cement, like 0.3 to 1. We take four lobes of sand. Sift on a relatively large mesh to remove large particles, then take the smallest cage, which can be found( as if for tea).So exclude dust. Then wash the sand to ensure better strength. You can wash the sand under the tap in a fine sieve, and immediately mix with the lime dough.
3. Add cement M500 to the resulting mud. The proportion is indicated above. Stir well, it turns out as in the photo. Put the solution under the cover.

Completion of light switches for specified conditions

The luminaire wiring diagram is not difficult - difficulties begin later. The reviews gave a link to the video, which shows how the LED light flashes, although the light switch is in an off position. It turns out that the supply capacitors of the circuit are charged through. .. the light of the backlight. Recommended to remove. Inside there will be an electrical circuit like the one shown in the photo. Just bite the light and the resistor( you do not need to throw it out, it will fit in the farm).

wiring diagram Please note that illuminated switches are more expensive. Extra stump point: insufficient wiring length. It would seem: put the terminal strip and live in peace. But each such node increases the resistance of the circuit, which leads to a loss of electricity for the needs of the left and is fraught with the danger of a fire( for this reason it is not recommended to twist).In old houses, wires are often aluminum, as shown in the photo. The veins of different lengths, it is necessary that the button turns on up, and does not work.

In this case, the connection of the light switch does not directly make sense. We disassemble the body to the depths. To the place where the contacts are located. Due to the unification of the design, one contact is transferred to the opposite side, as shown in the picture, and we get the required one. It happens that the task is steeper: you need to bring both terminals up, because the wiring does not reach. We'll have to work hard to connect the light switch.

The author's photo shows that the pad is modified to close not on the bottom of the ceramic bath, but directly on the weight. Due to the elasticity of the spring pusher of the button and the flexibility of brass, the focus goes off with a bang. Of course, it is better to take contact from the old, already unnecessary light switch, in order to get back to normal when necessary. After completion, the direction of the button is reversed. What was required in the described situation. The photo shows that the appearance of the light switch housing has remained the same( in terms of wiring terminals), the circuit has changed to the exact opposite.

Sometimes connecting a fluorescent lamp will require control. It is more convenient to do this with holes on the light switch. Makel gives this opportunity, with other manufacturers sometimes more difficult. If the case is plastic, you just need to drill holes in the right places. Plus, on the reverse side they are slightly outlined. Easier to do at low revs.

So, today we showed how the light switches are connected and refined according to the requirements that have arisen, and they talked about the silenced details. Light bulbs and resistors are easily replaced by analogs, do not fail for decades.