Bearing replacement in the washing machine: instruction how to change their own hands

When the washing machine go haywire bearing, measures should be taken immediately. Continuing to use the unit with a breakdown invariably ends lethal destruction for him.

The timely detection of faults and replacing handwritten bearing in the washing machine will cost incomparably cheaper than master a payment or purchase a new device.

Signs of damage to the bearing assembly

Breakdowns are dependent upon various factors, including the quality of the equipment and its age assembly. Trouble can occur for the following reasons:

• because of worn bearing assembly destroys gland moisture;
• violated the rules of the installation of the washing machine;
• regular overload tank.

Possible and such trouble as originally poor quality of bearings themselves.

Often learn about real damage even at the hearing. On failure of the bearing assembly appeared eloquent signs indicate:

• drum after the wash program does not turn although the motor is running;
• the drum rotates, but makes unusual grinding noise, and sometimes crashing, washing machine vibrates significantly;
• laundered linen is not pressed.

Deciding to cope with such an obstacle on their own, we need to be clear that this is a very time-consuming process, relating to major repair, in which the dismantling is subject to virtually all Washer.

When the final decision about self-elimination of breakage, so as not to aggravate the situation, it is necessary to stop the operation of the faulty engine and start preparing to repair.

What tools are needed?

First of all, before the serious work is necessary in advance to take care of spare parts and tools that will be required in the course of repair.

Set of tools:

• pliers;
• carob clues different diameters;
• hammer;
• metal rod with a diameter of a pencil or blunt chisel;
• Phillips and a flathead screwdriver.

Need sealant of silicone and grease intended for bearings, placed it in the washing machine is not afraid of water.

Parts of the need to purchase the oil seal and the bearing 2. Details of non-aligned, but on the device brand stores will pick up what you need.

It is also possible by dismantling the machine and removing the old part numbers for them to find and write down the necessary details on the Internet.

Not worth saving: the life of the washing machine is directly dependent on the quality of parts. Ultimately, cheaper analogues are more expensive original spare parts.

washing machine disassembly stage

First of all, you need to disconnect from stiralku communications, supplying it with water and electricity, to ensure draining. To get to the broken bearing, it is necessary to remove the tank, and this is actually disassemble the entire machine.

Do not be amiss to a camera or a cell phone with a similar function to lock all the stages of removal.

When assembling such foresight can provide invaluable help, because 100 percent rely on the memory of more than risky. In extreme cases, the entire process should be recorded, especially the procedure for connection of wires.

Step # 1 - remove the cover and the dashboard

First, the cover is removed. To do this by removing the 2 self-tapping screws on the rear panel, it is raised by sliding back slightly.

The next task - removing the tray for washing powder. It is quite free to leave the grooves, if pulling and pushing a special latch, pull it toward you.

The models are not equipped with such a button poroshkopriemnik can be pulled by gently pushing it down.

Before you remove the upper instrument panel, you need to determine where the bolts securing it. The location and number of them depending on the model may be different, but in a place where he was taken out of the powder tray, some screws located exactly.

Another one is always placed on the right side of the washing device. If after unscrewing the panel does not want to act, we must continue to search for missing fasteners.

Before disconnecting a whole bunch of wires leading to the control board, be sure to take pictures of them - this will greatly help in the reverse merger.

Next you need to remove the bottom panel: after pressing a flat screwdriver to hold the locks it can easily be released.

Step # 2 - release the sunroof, remove the front wall

The next step will be the release of the cuff, ie rubber gaskets, worn on one side of the tank, and the other - on the front panel of the washing machine. It is fixed by a spring and a collar.

Turn came to dismantle the front wall. To do this, latched the hatch removed bolts that hold the panel and carefully remove it from the hook, remember the wire connecting the panel and the door catch.

As soon as the opportunity arises, disconnect the wire. Obstacles to remove the wall, left.

Step # 3 - Remove heater, wiring and fuel tank

First clean the inner top panel, which in the rear of the device search out the screws fixing the valve to the water supply and remove them. After that, begin twisting the screws on the panel.

But hurry once it is not necessary to take - up of this action must be disconnected, do not forget to shoot at the camera, wires and pipes.

This is followed by dismantling the spout, with the tank through an articulated clamp. Unscrews the clamp, tube removed. Near at hand is not superfluous to have a rag, because of the pipe may leak the remaining water.

The heating element should be removed too. To do this, disconnect the wires to the appropriate heater.

The different models of the location of the heating element is possible both in front and in back of the automatic washing machine, so you have to be prepared for dismantling and the back wall.

At this stage, the wiring is completely dismantled. It should be borne in mind that sometimes to different parts of the machine it is attached different types of fasteners. For example, to the tank, it can be attached or wire ties.

Next, wires are removed from the engine. You can also disconnect the wiring from the pump and clean the outside so that it does not create unnecessary noise when the time comes to remove the tank.

To make it easier to remove the tank, it is necessary to remove the counterweights - lower and upper. Depending on their model can be found in the front housing and the rear.

Using a wrench bolts are removed, the locking in position dampers and the water level sensor.

After removing the strap and disconnect the motor and shock absorbers work on the tank withdrawal from the bowels of the machine is close to the final. Buck was only hanging on springs, it weighs a little bit, so more effort is needed.

For convenience in the forthcoming disassembly liberated tank is generally placed on a firm table top pulley.

Step # 4 - dismantle dismantled structures

To avoid accidentally during operation as not to spoil the rubber sleeve, preferably to remove it, do not forget to note the correct location marker.

The tank usually made of two pieces fastened together. Fasteners, depending on the brand of the machine can be special latches or bolts. These need to disconnect the half. There are, however, integral tanks that need to be sawn.

In conventional cases, after it will be removed the front part of the tank, at the back it is possible to see half of the drum, which already can be removed without hindrance.

Step # 5 - we reveal the cast tank

In some models, especially the brands Ariston and Indesit, there are not collapsible and tanks Solid polycarbonate.

In such cases, to get to the faulty bearing capacity will need to cut ordinary hacksaw.

The thickness of the cut was as little as possible, the saw blade to minimize the separation of teeth rattle hammer.

Cut the halves coat with sealant and pre-labeling rolled screws.

Gradual replacement of worn bearings

The point is gradually coming to an end, and soon it will be possible to get rid of defective bearings, but there is still some precede action.

Step # 1 - preparatory works

Now we need to carefully disconnect the drum from the rear side of the tank - an operation responsible, in need of increased attention.

First you have to get rid of fasteners holding the pulley. Buck flipped up pulley is disconnected bolt fixing it to the shaft. When a pulley with axis will be removed, torn off the bolt is returned to the place to avoid damage to the shaft when the drum dislodging.

Val recovered gradually careful tapping hammer. Some experts advise inexperienced masters to use in this case, a rubber mallet to inadvertently not razvaltsevat bearing seat.

If the shaft is gradually supplied, work patiently continue. With a negative result before increasing efforts, the standard bolt should be replaced so that is not a pity to throw away in case of deformation.

When the shaft position equals the cap bolt, the latter gets out, the drum is taken out.

It is necessary to carefully inspect the shaft and hub for their integrity. To check, you can wear on the shaft new bearing to accurately verify the absence or presence of the backlash. If defects are found, the shaft with the crosspiece have to be replaced.

On the sleeve situated on the shaft must also be free from defects and generation of mechanical damage.

Explicit eloquently transverse grooves, such that the lobe of the sleeve bearing can not protect from moisture, and therefore repeated repair inevitable.

Before removing the bearings need to remove the gland. Operation is simple: pick a flat screwdriver and remove. If you just did not work, it has to be soaked by means of penetrating lubricant.

There will be no trouble if the gland breaks, still it must be replaced.

Step # 2 - removing the spoiled items

The tank is placed on a block of wood, and the work comes the turn of a metal rod or a blunt chisel. Having put a pin to worn bearings, hit the hammer parts.

Subsequent strokes are in a circle as long as the item is stamped. During operation, it is necessary to make sure that the bearing is not twisted. First outer bearing recovered.

In the same way and get rid of the second bearing. Strokes should be neat and not strong. Yet this procedure is quite noisy, so the neighbors will be grateful home handyman, if he finds an opportunity to do it outside the home.

landing site with the help of funds from deposits and soft tissue must be carefully, to shine, to clean up from dirt to prevent clogging of the new parts.

Step # 3 - installation of new bearings

Now nothing prevents install serviceable bearings. Initially, this was done so that the smaller ones.

The metal rod and helps here: it is applied to the bearing alternately on opposite sides of and careful hammer blows directed to the desired location.

The fact that the item is placed correctly, tell the sound: it will be much louder. Likewise changes and a larger size bearings.

It remains to establish a new oil seal. First of all, it is necessary to process the lubricant designed specifically for washing machines. Only then it can be placed on the position of his place.

When it does not, some recommend Litol-24, which can be purchased at any auto shop. But the responsibility to do the master is strongly advised not to. Large water-resistant it does not possess, and what bearings carries the moisture, it is clear to all.

Step # 4 - assembly structure in reverse order

Tank lubricate the shaft is installed at the same address - in the back cover. Before you connect the halves of the tank, sealing gum is recommended to replace a new one. In the extreme case fill the circle with the gasket groove of the sealant layer.

It remains to collect the car. Do this following the reverse order with respect to disassembly. Then invaluable service handyman will have photos that he did when he judged the assembly.

The more, the less likely that gathered near stiralki remain "extra" parts.

Features of repair with vertical load

Here, the drum has a support 2 on the axis and the bearing 2. With such a robust design, they break down very often, usually when there is some sort of failure.

they are often spoils the water penetrating through the defective packing. Rusting steadily clogging dirt, bearing, eventually, crashes.

Repairing these machines is much more convenient. When communications are disabled, remove the 2 side covers housing, and access to the front of the work provided.

First replace the bearing on the side where no drive pulley. For this support is removed - a ready-made set of bearings and seals, enclosed in the housing.

The landing place of the gland, as well as the shaft itself, freed from contamination. Setting the bearing, it is necessary to avoid misalignment of the sealing ring.

Otherwise, it can not prevent the flow of fluid, causing new damage to the bearing.

Change the caliper from the engine start to remove the belt and the drum pulley. Then comes the turn of grounding pads. Following unscrew the caliper. Shaft and bearing seat, as in the first case are thoroughly cleaned.

Defective oil seal is mounted on the allotted him a place, tightening the caliper. Great effort is not necessary to apply, because the thread is made on plastic. The assembly, as usual, is carried out in reverse order.

Conclusions and useful videos on the topic

A visual representation of the intricacies of the recovery of household washing machines are available from the movies, where the masters share knowledge and experience of the work.

As a self-bearing, non-collapsible replace the tank:

How to change the bearings in machines with vertical load:

How to knock out the bearing shell:

After the performed operation to repair a washing machine working again. This is good news, because a lot of money saved: as a rule, professionals cost of removing such a fault close to a third of the price of the new unit.

A home handyman, in practice, the knowing how to change a worn bearing for washing the car after such a baptism of fire opens up new prospects for a successful home repair household technology.