How to change the outlet with your own hands

In principle, there are strict standards for installation, and they are often not respected. It comes to the point that people have to find ways to change the outlet with their own hands.

Podozetniki as a basis for strengthening the nest

Podozetniki as a basis for strengthening the nest

In the old days, a plate was already cast together with a channel for electrical wires and sockets for sockets. This was carried out at foundries, from where whole rooms came out ready. That's due to what houses were built quickly. Now, electricians ask the owners to dig the wall with a wall chaser under the reinstallation of electrical wiring, ripping the results of the repair. It is clear that it is expensive. Better to use broach. But the basis is podozetniki:

1. In the USSR, podrozetniki often made of steel. These are flasks inserted into the socket, giving support to the body. The struts firmly rested in the walls of the floor, and the product served for a long time. There were also disadvantages: the staples slid out on the metal, due to which the socket fell out. Occasionally, the fitters would put rubber scraps inside to increase the friction force. Although you can actually bend the installation spacers of the socket slightly outwards. A rubber inside should not be: it becomes a cause of fire during intense operation. For example, if the heater is turned on. There were polymeric podozetniki. Durable, unlike modern.
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2. Today podozetniki plastic. They contain a bunch of additional elements that simplify installation. On the back side of the underside of it is a rugged ribs for a firm fit. Installation is on plaster, putty, other building mixture, suitable for operating conditions. It is easier to align such sub-viewers by laser, since there is no place to attach the level. Installation is flush with the wall. On the side walls of the sub-platform there are various technological openings, through a part of them, during installation the mortar will seep inside, and will provide a stable fastening. On the front are four screws under the cross, spaced at equal 90 degree steps. They are used as an option for fixing the outlet housing. Remove fasteners needed after installation and finishing of the room, otherwise the thread will be clogged with mortars.

Podozetnik serves as the basis for installation. It forms a solid foundation, it does not crumble and does not stretch. A plastic spring, thanks to which the struts crash into the walls of the floor. This is important, because so the power point gets a reliable support. If you need to install more outlets, do not necessarily double the number of podozetnikov. Tandems and triples of sockets, designed for simple installation, are on sale. And the separation of the line is the correct switching. Podzozetniki divided by:

• Installation diameter. Here you need to be attentive. Some podrozetnikov made 60 millimeters, but there are exceptions to the rule. In order not to chisel the wall, you should estimate the size in advance.
• The depth of embedment flush is not the same: about 40 or 60 millimeters. It is necessary to coordinate the dimensions in advance with the recess in the wall and with the dimensions of the outlet body.

When selecting the right format, we begin dismantling the old outlet.

Removing the old outlet and installing the new

According to the old schemes, the outlet has two terminals: a neutral and a phase. We must first understand what is where. This is necessary for proper wiring. It is easier to use a screwdriver-probe: the light will tell the location of the phase. It is necessary to insert the probe into the socket outlet, and touch the contact area on the handle with a finger. If the light is off, then the phase is not here.

Then the electricity is turned off, and the screwdriver-probe will help to verify this. Then the front part of the outlet is removed and you need to loosen the screws that appear. Lateral, at the ends tighten the struts of the case, and the lower and upper press the electrical wires( terminals).After loosening the screws, remove the old outlet. Further, while the wires are not messed up, mark the phase with a marker. This is done for the same type of layout. In a properly routed outlet, the phase should be on the left.

Then the installation of a new sub-box occurs, if the old one is not suitable for further use. The constructions left over from the time of the USSR are not always very precise. Sometimes they are too large in diameter( for modern outlets), which is the main difficulty. The current podozetnik is installed on any existing mortar. Please note that the strength of tile glue or concrete will be higher than that of plaster. But the cement solution has a lower limit on the thickness of the application, and it is not always possible to use it. The same applies to putty and plaster, therefore, you must first read the instructions.

Podrozetnik leveled on a laser level, or approximately. Mounts flush to wall. It can be convenient to fasten a wide plank with screws using a screw on the front panel. The essence of such operations is to immobilize the bottom plate for the duration of the drying solution. To increase the reliability of the outlet, we wait a period with a margin( 28 days for cement mortar).

outlet. If there is no grounding in the circuit of the house, it is better to combine the side terminals of the outlet with the neutral wire. To do this, put the jumper inside. For example, from a copper conductor. For sections consisting of many small wires, crimping sleeve is used. Soldering would be the worst option, but contact resistance would decrease. The socket is placed so that the phase is on the left, and the neutral wire on the right. Special attention is paid to alignment and fastening:

1. As mentioned above, on the front of the box there are four screw holes, the case is attached to them through a special socket shape. It is necessary to reject the outlet about 5 - 7 degrees counterclockwise, put it on through wide ears, and horizontally.
2. If the floor stand is crooked, then it is easier to use the side struts. They crash into the walls of the floorboard and alone firmly hold the structure. Sometimes braces need to bend or bend depending on the size. Further side screws are tightened. There is a subtlety. Often the socket does not want to stand back, and in the previous models in the area of ​​the spacers there were long slots under the slotted screwdriver to press, sticking inside the sting and resting on the spacer. But the modern electrician of such important trifles, unfortunately, is often devoid. Therefore, to put the socket exclusively on the struts is difficult.
3. It is necessary to make socket contacts so that the phase is on the left and the neutral wire is on the right( as seen from the front).The wire with small conductors is crimped with a sleeve or supplied with a terminal with a hole in the center. The screws holding the phase and the neutral are wrapped tightly. Especially difficult will have with aluminum core: it breaks easily.
4. Part of the outlets comes with platbands. It is usually placed under the body. And you need to replace the outlet, taking into account the order of assembly.
5. The front panel is screwed on top.

. After the electricity is applied, the installed outlet is checked. Should take a tester. First of all, we measure the potential difference in the working nests. It should be about 220 V. Carefully set the range of the multimeter. The ac voltage measurement mode is used with a permissible upper limit( above 250 V).This is how the wiring is evaluated. And now we measure the potential difference between the side-lobe terminal and both sockets: with the left there should be a difference of 220 V, and with the right one - 0. If there are discrepancies, the installation is not correct. Check with a screwdriver indicator. Phase should be on the left. If everything listed above is done, we consider that the outlet connections were successful.

Who did not have a tester, we recommend the popular method. You will need a surge protector from a personal computer. If there is a phase on the rosette of the socket, the filter bulb fails to light up. Does not light up when a key is pressed. And if the filter is working, and the potential difference between the side lobes and the left socket is 220 V( the other conditions listed above must also be met), then we consider the test finished.

How to install multiple outlets in a row of

Often you need to connect a triple socket or with a large number of sockets in a row. Sold special podozetniki representing the line of the usual. The distance between the centers of the nests is 71 mm. This is not a dogma, but Legrand has it. Under the nest we pierce a hole in the concrete of the required diameter and thickness. Easier to make it a crown. This refers to a special device under the hammer drill for drilling walls.

We will make sure in advance that steel fittings do not pass inside. Unfortunately, the test screwdriver does not fit: it is better to find a locator. It should be similar from 4000 rubles and above. With the help of the locator we check the presence in the surface layer of the wall for the installation of a different view of the metal structure. If they are present, their contours are outlined with chalk, and then the sub-viewers are positioned so that they do not overlap with the area.

Of course, the design of the design is different. For example, old copper wiring can be removed. It is important that when using the crown there are no negative consequences. In some cases, we solve this problem again. Under the wiring wall shtrobit. Not too far away people recommend doing this with a grinder, and experienced craftsmen come out without a hitch. But more often, such actions are performed by a wall chaser. The difference in the price of the tool can be two times. The wall chaser is clearly categorized as professional equipment. He has two discs separated by a small distance from each other. This allows you to make an even penalty.

A grid of vertical lines is applied to the wall. The wall chaser is easily out of the way to the side, and the desire to connect the socket from the switch turns into a number of difficulties if everything goes wrong. The groove falls out due to the vibrations of the unit, chipping off with jagged pieces. In extreme cases it is possible to finish the penalty with a chisel and a hammer.

Wiring is laid in place, the wiring diagram of the outlet and switch is shown in the figure. The cable is plastered over with plaster, put to smoothness by putty. Pay attention to the cross section of the conductor. If you want to connect the stove to the outlet, then you need about 6 square millimeters. You may have to pull away from the panel, since the internal wiring of the apartment has a smaller cut. What is unacceptable.

In some cases, it is convenient to lay channels of copper or steel pipes( or corrugation) inside the walls. In the future, this will allow to shield the electrical wiring and use the cable for updating.