Repair home multicooker begins with the study of the electrical circuit. Let us take a brief look at two photos: the image of the track pattern and the installation of a printed circuit board, which forms the voltage supply to the control panel, contains a relay connecting the heating element at the right time. Consider first the algorithm of the device, then we will discuss the repair of the multicooker with your own hands. Informing the readers, we bring the information: the equipment that allows pressing a single button to make porridge is produced exclusively for the CIS.Polaris, Brand, Scarlett, Supra, Vitesse, Redmond - sonorous names, and a good half have nothing to do with the west. America recognizes the famous Philips, in Europe, too, the home multicooker has not yet gained popularity. We believe that the current state of affairs is caused by a war of ideas. The United States considers: convection oven plus a microwave oven capable of replacing the Universe of culinary home appliances.
Principle of operation of the home multicooker
The unique programs of the home multicooker are corporate secrets. The controller is protected against reading information, excluding copying competitors. Algorithms contain non-volatile memory. It is known: there are two sensors that allow the technician to create an algorithm for further actions. The multicooker device is based on mathematical calculations. We suppose that inside the memory microcircuit there are temperatures, durations of individual segments of the recipe. Valuable information lays the basis for the management of heating elements. The multicooker contains two sensors:
- A thermistor is attached to the back side of the main button. Sometimes it is not easy to remove, the manufacturer did not at all anticipate the intervention of a self-taught, bypassing the warranty services. There will be a big surprise for the lucky owners of Redmond: removable terminals are filled with compound, non-invasive disassembly is impossible. The news will prevent repairing the slow cooker yourself.
- Inside the lid another sensor lurked. It is extremely difficult to get there, it is worthwhile to go there only if complete confidence has arisen: the fault concerns the sensor. How to get iron confidence. Try to undock, regardless of the compound, the desired connector, after - turn on the home multicooker. Remains the same? There is a high probability that a snag is found. Gain confidence by measuring the resistance between the sensor wires and warm the lid. Redmond multicookers pass the wiring through the loop of the removable cover. After turning the screw, remove the shield, pull the wiring out, prepare a home multicooker, at the same time measuring the resistance. Do not have to look for third-party tools.
A home cooker requires two sensors to work. From the sensors there is a pair of wires of the terminals of the control board, the substrate is often located under the buttons. Determining a power supply fault is extremely simple: there is no illumination of the elements of the display panel in any state. Surely breaking the source. Remove the bottom, measure the output voltage of the switching power supply. Do not confuse with the transformer. Remove after filters, diode bridges.
Touch or mechanical control. In the latter case, the circuit board is equipped with microswitches. Counters count the number of clicks, the memory chip selects the appropriate information to run the program. Traditionally, a pair of power wires comes here, one goes( control signal of the relay supplying the heating element).True, easy! One signal manages the kitchen in a home cooker. To get the information you need to sweat a chipset. The signal is a constant level that turns the transistor on and off. The Zener diode does not allow the contact voltage to exceed the limit. Anchor relay closes the circuit TENA.Now consider the processes occurring in a pulsed power source.
Switching power supply of a home multicooker
The transformer is clearly shown in the picture. Carefully wrapped with electrical tape, filled with a transparent compound. Right input filter. Preventive measures help to protect the device from input pulsations( home multicooker does not create voltage fluctuations).On the board turned upside down, you can see: a resistor plus a capacitor stand in the way of the transformer, saving the low-voltage part. Power TENA is a separate path.
A curious feature of the above scheme. The transformer carries two secondary windings connected in parallel. We believe that an exotic step increases the reliability of the device, since no large consumption is planned on the horizon( energy goes to the heating element), the element base was created to serve as the basis for building another( household) equipment, the multicooker went to the company with other factory jewelry.
It is extremely easy to call the transformer. In the off state, the relay is open, do not disassemble the multicooker. Between the input terminals of the plug is quite small resistance. There is a nuance, the photo shows: in parallel there is an electric filter. To understand if the winding is faulty, you have to figure out the resistor rating. When connected in parallel, the sum of ohms is less than the lower resistance. The winding has a small face value, maximum two-digit number. The capacitor is unusual, if it strikes, the device will continue to work, only the protection will decrease. The check is simple. Charge the input circuit of the home multicooker with direct current, and place a voltmeter parallel to the battery. Did the signal immediately disappear or fade out? Must be the last.
After the transformer is a full-wave rectifier formed by four diodes. Even a schoolboy can call back.
We remind you: the diode conducts a direct current of the multimeter in only one direction. Similarly, the integrity of the pn junctions of bipolar transistors is simplified. The arrow circuit designates the direction of flow of positive charges( not electrons).Avoid confusion.
Following the rectifier, the scheme of the pulsed power supply unit of the home multicooker includes another filter containing the largest resistor and a nearby capacitor. Then we see an emitter follower with a small zener diode and a resistor, choosing a working point. The preventive step aligns the circuit with the load. Attentive readers will notice: food for a home multicooker brings blue and red wiring. White controls the resistor energizing the gate of the relay. It is easy to trace: the signal goes to the base( middle contact), at the right time the voltage generated by the rectifier and filter, the home-mounted multicooker relay. In parallel, the Zener diode is turned on, since( we assume) the rectified voltage is different in its nominal value: the power supply to the microcircuits, the relay goes by a different voltage.
We can see the minus of the circuit: some of the power is lost, the on state is dominant during cooking. As soon as the control signal disappears, the transistor breaks the connection, the relay opens, the heating element stops heating. It seems that using the information, readers can easily repair the multicooker with their own hands, simply by poking, wherever they are, with multimeter probes.
Pay attention - a piece of double wire in the place where the schematic outline of the fuse can be seen on the photo of the home multicooker. Bypassing the specified location, a current of 230 V is supplied by the relay. We believe the jumper replaces the fuse that protects the local network from kurtosis. In the working position, the circuit board is located elements down. As soon as the current exceeds the allowable limit, the wire will begin to melt, the metal will simply drain to the bottom of the home multicooker( not covered by a similar incident).If the indicated sign is visible during dismantling, a short circuit occurs inside. Breakdown of the heating element in a home multicooker, or another reason. Take time to restore the jumper.
Take a multimeter, call the heater. One end will open the relay. Resistance is found in Ohm’s law. It is necessary to get the power of the home multicooker spiral for 230 V, then we calculate the resistance. Pre-square of the effective voltage( 230 V) is divided by the power( watts).It will turn out 30 Ohms, the multimeter will show the calculated numbers. It is easy to check the relay if you enable the program. Immediately on the heating element will appear voltage of 230 V after a slight click. If the effect is absent, it is time to change the relay, or the control circuit is broken. The latter is easy to check: the control voltage will come to the base of the transistor( middle terminal) via the white conductor. Finally, the output parameters of the switching power supply are easily measured.
It remains to add: detachable joints are often filled with compound, it is quite difficult to disassemble the soldering. The constructions are typical, the authors are 100% sure: the repair of the Polaris multi-cooker follows the standard procedure, just like the Cuckoo multi-cooker. In the process, the main thing is to preserve the presentation of the vehicle. Each manufacturer seeks to supplement the design with new decorations, the repairman to complicate the task. The refined marketing policy is understandable: firms want to know whether self-taught people looked inside the acquisitions before taking on service. Repair multivarki Mulineks certainly will not pass unnoticed by experts.
With a similar purpose, the process of disassembling the body of the product is complicated. Screws are selected non-standard. Often screwed "for sight", do not hold anything. An inexperienced master will certainly leave marks, depriving the warranty of a scratched device. Further developments are obvious: increased fees, refusal to service the broken product.
How to repair
Scandal! In the service center of a well-known manufacturer of household appliances - we will not give a name - they don’t even open the equipment given to the repairmen. As they found out: on the local forum, Lefty was asked to do a multi-cook repair on their own. In the response report was indicated: the body is full. .. remnants of porridge, no one opened the device. The cause of the fault was limited to a thermal fuse! But the office workers said: the microprocessor broke, repair will require financial costs of 5,000 rubles!
The address of the company has been replenished with serious accusations: this is not the first time when the multicooker is being repaired in the same way. Reputation service center stained. Relevance gained appeals to repair the slow cooker with their own hands. A disguised dealer representative appeared on the forum, which:
- gave an email address - leave a complaint about the multicooker repair service;
- explained the dangers of doing work at home;
- asked if it was embarrassing for people to upload photos and videos describing the multicooker repair.
While the disguised representative was telling what problems were noticed, what caused them, hitting old-timers with knowledge, several members of the forum managed to leave a “thank you” to the author of the note. Regardless of the dangers, the multicooker housings were disassembled with the subsequent replacement of the ill-fated thermal safety device.
Note. The authors think: the danger of electric shock can be avoided if the multicooker is disconnected from the AC network before repairs. I do not want to overpay, performing repair by service centers.
When the details were revealed, there were ideologues enlightened by the niva assembly, dismantling these complex devices. It turns out that 90% of the cases of repair of the multicooker consist in replacing the thermal fuse.
Thermal fuse
The above mentioned device, for the repair of which they were asked to pay 5,000 rubles, suffered from a common illness. The self-taught master opened the case of the multicooker, poured out the porridge, got to the thermal protector, changed it. Then, collecting the device, gave the hostess.
What is a thermal fuse. When it comes to repairing a multicooker, we are talking about a cylindrical piece of wire, strongly resembling the appearance of a resistor. The response temperature is 170 ºС, the maximum current is 10 - 15 A, depending on the type of element. When the specified parameters are outside the acceptable range, the thermal fuse burns, breaking the circuit in which it is connected.
Why you can not make the specified item yourself. Firstly, the cost of the element is modest, and secondly, they put a thermal fuse for a reason. Homemade copy has other characteristics that will not lead to good. Repair of the multicooker at home with the use of a similar initiative in the worst case will end in fire.
Where to find how to replace the thermal fuse
The thermal fuse is hiding inside, in the heart of the multi-cooker. A number of pieces, covered with shads, dressed on colored wires. Accordingly, in order to detect the burned part, unscrew the bottom of the multicooker.
If you take out the saucepan, you'll find a button under it. At least, the node looks like this and is named among the members of the forum. This is a solid-sized steel mushroom, the leg of which is covered by a net spring. The surface around is a heating element. When the multivark is disassembled during repair, the thermal cut-outs are located near the “main” button.
The mentioned cambers are visible. Sometimes they are additionally covered by a clamp, screwed with a screw, often hanging in the air.
Note. Cambric - a piece of wired plastic insulation, usually white. It serves to protect the joints of various components.
Fastening of fuses is crimped, it is strictly prohibited to use soldering. A burning sting easily burns down a heat-sensitive element. At this, the multicooker repair will pause, the search for a new thermal fuse will begin.
How to identify a faulty item and test at least one. Fans recommend using a Chinese tester. You do not need to remove the thermal fuse. The detected fault is eliminated.
Fuses in Redmond
Why do we need thermal fuses. The reader will immediately interrupt - to protect the overheated device. We see grounds to assert: thermal protectors are needed in order to repair Redmond multicookers more often.
How heterogeneous facts are related. Here's what the hostess wrote to forum users - an experienced multicooker user: “I accidentally turned on the device without a pot, noticed after 40 seconds, immediately turned off the device.”The woman wanted to know what would happen to the Redmond M90, if you do not put the pot in place at all.
Dobrokhot suggested: the worst will not happen. The main button( see above), located under the bottom of the pot, will not allow the slow cooker to turn on in the absence of dishes. The hostess conducted an experiment: with the open( !) Lid, pulled out by the pot, she launched the program. After 10 seconds, the heating element became hot. The result is staggering: there is no protection against improper inclusion in the Multicooker Redmond.
What will happen, leave the cook for a long time kitchen assistant deprived of supervision. The conclusion suggests an advanced forumchanin: to protect against overheating inside the fuses. Security elements cope with the function only once - burning out. After the kurtosis, the intervention of a “specialist” is required.
Actually, for this we consider hand-made repair of Redmond multicookers - when the reason is known, repair becomes a simple matter. If a multicooker, once left unattended, refuses to turn on, the case is probably thermal fuses.
Now read the service book, issued to the buyer Multicooker Redmond. Quotations are selective, so as not to tire the reader with excess information. Warranty repairs are not made if "a product with. .. heat, other damages, arising due to improper operation. ..".
Redmond Multivarka, warranty repair - whether two things are compatible. Only not in the case when the habit has started to leave the device turned on unattended! The main button under the pot is present to measure the temperature, to withstand the right cooking modes.
I would like to recall on this occasion users who, forgetting to install the pot, pour the liquid inside, pour out the cereals. Be extremely careful. If irreparable happens, immediately unplug the power cord from the 230 V socket. The device must be cleaned. The following information was discovered: it is possible to simply rinse with water, dry the chips for 1 week at room temperature. .. Naturally, you can use the method at your own peril and risk. Nothing like the official manual does not provide.
Chip
In a typical multicooker, there are two electronic boards:
- Power.
- Office.
The first directly near the bottom. To reach the second one, it is necessary to disassemble the multicooker completely, remove the inner cylindrical surface.
chips are inspected carefully. What malfunctions we notice with the naked eye. Signs of problems include:
- carbon deposits;
- peeling and tearing tracks;
- solder joint failure;
- blackened resistors;
- swollen capacitors.
Defective items should be replaced immediately. It is easier to restore soldering. Repair of the board tracks is done by stripping with zero sandpaper, tinning damage. Sometimes jumpers are added, it is easy to make the legs of the resistors. The result of the work fill with varnish. Otherwise, the leakage will end badly for the multicooker. Repair will be a dire need. The varnish protects metal from water and oxygen - the main enemies of conductors.
Video repair instructions
Conclusion
Multicookers reliable devices that have been working for years. Breakage caused by improper operation, sometimes fuse blown. The above instructions and the availability of common sense will be enough to figure out how to repair the multicooker at home. Naturally, if the device is guaranteed, the only option is official service. Then why fuss? The official service center will carry out the necessary operations.
Note! Try to restart the device before troubleshooting. There are cases of standard error: the program crash makes it impossible to read the sensor signal from the microchips. As a result, the heating element operated continuously. When restarting, the device is reset, the error found( when detected) is indicated by a fault code with a time indicator.
