- №1.Bath-barrel: design features
- №2.Bath-flank: advantages and disadvantages of
- №3.Material performance
- №4.Types of bath-drums
- №6.Size of the barrel-barrel
- №7.A bathhouse with their own hands
The love of a Russian-style bath for a Russian has even turned into a national feature, which is why many people dream of having their own bathhouse at their summer cottage. Here are just the high cost and duration of construction often scares lovers of bath rituals, and there is not enough space in any section. But do not be in a hurry to despair, because you can buy a bath-flank, a mobile low-cost design, which is not inferior to the traditional bath. This brilliant Finnish invention conquered the whole world and gained wide popularity in domestic spaces. Let's deal with the features of the choice of bath-flank, varieties, advantages, disadvantages and features of a hand-made construction.
№1.Bath-barrel: design features
The main feature of the bath-barrel is easily understood from the name. This is a structure that has an cylindrical form:
: round( less often oval) ends are joined by boards and tied together with metal hoops. The diameter and length of the barrel can vary greatly, what determines the capacity of the bath and the number of zones that can be organized in it. The diameter, as a rule, is about 2-2.5 m, length varies from 2 to 6 m and more. Doors in the bath-barrel are made of wood or tempered glass. In the opposite end of the entrance is a stove-heater. Along the walls, as a rule, tanks are installed.
In a small bath-barrel only can be fitted with a steam room for 1-2 people. In a more spacious structure, you can arrange the shower area, rest room and other rooms of .They are separated from each other by wooden partitions. Naturally, it will be necessary to connect water supply, sewage and electricity to the bath.
The interior of the bath-barrel differs little from the classic Russian bath, but the arrangement of the barrel is much cheaper, and the building itself takes up minimal space. The first such baths guessed to do in Finland. The bathing culture is very developed in this country, and everything is approached with the utmost practicality, so cheap and mobile bath-barrels appeared.
The category of bath-drums also includes small structures that are placed vertically. They are designed only for one person, and the head of the bath procedure is outside. Such a bath takes up minimal space, and instead of a stove, it uses a steam generator.
If you have enough time, knowledge and skills, then the bath barrel can be built with your own hands , but today, many agree, that it is much easier and more profitable to buy a finished structure. Residents of Moscow and the Moscow Region can apply to the company “Bochkovedov”, which for 6 years of work has produced and installed about 500 bath-drums of different sizes and configurations. Cooperating directly with the manufacturer, you get substantial savings and a guarantee of quality. The order is executed within 2 days, the assembly is made by experts under the control of the customer, and you can pay already upon installation. You can get acquainted with the types of bath-drums and the possible configuration on the manufacturer's website http://bochki-bany.ru/.
№2.Bath-flank: advantages and disadvantages of
Indirectly, we have already touched upon the main advantages of bath-drums, but now will dwell on all the advantages in more detail:
- compactness .Bani-barrels are small in size, so they can be installed in a small summer cottage, even when it seems that it is impossible to isolate a piece of free land between numerous beds and greenhouses;
- Mobility .The design weighs no more than 1.5 tons, so it is extremely simple to transport. Moreover, such a bathhouse can be repeatedly moved from place to place and even transported. Someone even manages to take a design with them on a trip;
- The foundation is not needed due to the low weight of the structure. The chosen place, of course, is better to pre-level and provide a small slope for the outflow of water;
- speed of construction .The team of specialists will install the finished bath-barrel in a matter of hours - you will not have to wait for months for that cherished moment, when you can finally steam up in your own bath. You need to take care only of the availability of electricity, water and drain. If you suddenly need it, you can disassemble the bath with your own hands and assemble it in a new place;
- fast heating .In just 20-30 minutes, the internal space of the sauna is heated to a temperature of 900 ° C.In winter, heat is kept better than in traditional baths, and all due to the absence of corners. The high heat capacity of the structure allows the bath to be melted using a smaller amount of logs than with the kindling of a conventional bath;
- ergonomic .Despite the small footprint, in the barrel you can equip all the necessary for a comfortable bath procedures area for 3-8 people;
- original appearance. Probably, it is not worth explaining the fact that a large keg on the site will look impressive, it will become a real decoration of the territory;
- year-round operation;
- ease of care. Lack of corners and a small area simplify the cleaning process;
- environmental friendliness .Bath-drums are made of pure wood, so the steam will be healthy and healthy. The constructions are equipped with wood-burning stoves, therefore, it will be possible to save on electricity;
- small price .Bath-barrel is much cheaper than building a conventional bath.
The cons can be attributed to the fact that it is unlikely that you will be able to relax in a large bathhouse. In addition, the walls of the bath are single-layered; therefore, it is impossible to use strong “chemistry” for their processing. However, the market offers a lot of special protective agents for the treatment of bath walls: they combine maximum safety and efficiency. A lot of controversy causes thermal insulation of the bath and the ability to use it in the winter .Many are in favor of the fact that the bath-barrel - only the summer version. Manufacturers say, due to the high heat capacity of wood, powerful furnaces and the gapless mounting technology of the boards, the bath does not need insulation and retains high temperatures well even in cold weather. If the structure is made of high-quality material and correctly assembled, even in severe frost, with the heating turned off, the temperature will drop by 1 degree every 4 minutes.
The owners of bath-barrels share the experience that in winter at temperatures of -13. .. -150C they continue to use the steam room, but they clarify that it takes more time for kindling. Some manufacturers produce baths with an additional layer of insulation, which is suitable for year-round operation in areas with harsh climates.
When building a traditional bath, the choice of construction material is not so important - it is much more important to choose the right plating material. For the barrel bath it is necessary to correctly determine the material of execution at the time of design. As a rule, use these types of rocks:
- oak - the preferred material for building a bath. It is durable, durable wood, which is highly resistant to moisture and at the same time boasts a beautiful pattern and color. The minus of this material, as you can guess, is the high cost;
- linden has excellent healing properties, when heated, fumes come out of such wood, which have a positive effect on the respiratory system. In addition, they are useful for the skin, have a rejuvenating effect. The linden has excellent thermal insulation properties, but it also has one major drawback - poor water resistance, so the lime baths begin to rot faster than structures from other breeds;
- aspen is a relatively cheap breed that is not inferior in strength to linden, better tolerates moisture, keeps its shape well and does not crack;
- cedar - the only conifer that is suitable for the construction of the bath. This is a very dense wood that is not afraid of changes in temperature and high humidity, does not shrink, is not affected by fungus and mold, and that is why it has a high durability. In addition, the cedar bath is also aromatherapy, which comes as a bonus.
The remaining conifers contain a large number of resins, which, when exposed to high temperatures, begin to actively stand out. It is possible to create from such material only a framework for a bath. Bath inventory is made from fir, alder and birch - it is cheaper wood.
The thickness of the boards is 30-40 mm. The most widespread baths with a thickness of 40 mm boards. The thicker the material, the higher the thermal insulation qualities of the steam room.
No. 4.Types of bath-drums
The bath-barrel is suitable for organizing the following types of steam rooms:
- Russian bath , as is known, consists of two sections, a steam room and a washing zone. Steam room is filled with wet hot steam. This type of bath is very easy to organize in a barrel. An oven is installed in the steam room, there is a need to have a place to organize the washing room so that you can perform contrasting water procedures. It is better to position the stove so that the chamber with the heater is in the steam room, and the firebox and expansion tank are in the washing area. Since the places are few, the heating equipment is selected in a small size. The peculiarity of this type of bath is the formation of a large amount of wastewater, so that the drainage of water must be carefully considered;
- Finnish sauna is characterized by the presence of very hot dry steam. In this case, it is important to properly organize the ventilation with the valve systems. The steam room is equipped with benches and a small oven. The peculiarity of this type of bath is the need for rapid cooling for contrasting procedures. If you manage to organize a font near the barrel, it will be great, but you can do with a supply of buckets of cold water;
- Ofuro is a Japanese type of roofless bath, i.e.the barrel in this case is put on the end. Inside installed heating equipment and shops. The design is easy to install, but takes more time to prepare for bath procedures.
The standard shape of the barrel-barrel is round, hence the name, but some manufacturers offer their variations. The most popular forms can be called:
- round bath-barrel - the standard and most common option. It looks original, requires a small area for installation, quickly warms up;
- oval( elliptical) bath-barrel
- is square, or more precisely, semicircular and semi-square , the bath-barrel in the section looks like a square with rounded corners. It features the largest usable area among other buildings, here you can comfortably arrange more benches, tables, shelves, etc. The room warms up relatively quickly. This bath will look great on the site.
№6.Size of the barrel-barrel
The size of the structure is selected taking into account several factors of the : estimated number of visitors, free area and price. It is clear that the smaller the bath, the cheaper it will cost, but it will be less roomy.
Each manufacturer has its own model line, but the most popular are the bath-drums of such sizes:
- format “mini”: length is about 2-2.6 m , steam room 1.8-1.9 m, weight about 0, 5 tons. This design is designed for 2-4 people, but if you try hard, you can accommodate a company of 5-6 people. The approximate cost is $ 1200-1300;
- format "economy" - this bath is 20-30 cm longer than the "mini", cost a little more;
- format "standard" and "optimal" is different 3-3.5 m long , weighing about 1.1-1.3 tons. In such a bath, besides the steam room, you can place a dressing room. The cost is about $ 1700-2000;
- formats, which are called “premium”, “maxi”, “lux”, “mega” and the like by different manufacturers, have the length from 4 to 6 meters , can include not only a steam room and a waiting room, but also a washing room. The room is designed for 6-8 people, prices differ significantly and revolve around the mark of $ 2100-2700;
- format "exclusive" and the like in length occupy about 6 meters or more , characterized by the presence of a common room with a large table. The cost of about $ 3700.
In addition, any barrel bath can be completed with with a small covered terrace with benches for outdoor recreation, stairs, tables, window vents, fencing for the stove and other elements. Taking the standard project as a basis, it can be completed to your taste, while receiving the bath of your dreams.
№7.Bath-barrel with their own hands
Even though ready-made bath-barrels are inexpensive, some decide to make their own designs. In this case, you can talk about savings and maximum confidence in quality. At the same time, responsibility for the obtained result and time costs increase. Immediately warn that it is recommended to undertake the manufacture of the bath-barrel with your own hands only if you have confidence in your own abilities.
The whole process can be divided into the following stages: :
- preparation of the installation site .It is not necessary to equip the foundation - it will be enough to have a flat solid surface. An asphalt, concrete or paving slab will be suitable. An area covered with rubble or gravel can be used as a base. If there is no suitable place, then the work becomes somewhat more complicated. It will be necessary to dig a hole 20 cm deep and the width equal to the width of the barrel plus 50 cm, fill it with sandstone and gravel, lay down the reinforcement and fill it with concrete, after having constructed the formwork from the boards. Concrete will harden for about 3 weeks, and then you can proceed to the next stage. The platform can be made with a slight slope to drain from the bath more efficiently. At this stage, you can dig a pit to collect wastewater, equip it accordingly and remove from it a drain pipe, the second end of which will be connected to the drain from the barrel;
- manufacturing stand for the barrel .The supports are made of edged boards with a minimum thickness of 5 mm. They are mounted in steps of 150 cm, the number of supports depends on the length of the bath. In the supports it is necessary to make a rounded notch that corresponds to the diameter of the barrel. It will be more convenient to work with a pre-prepared drawing. Support fasten among themselves rigid coupling;
- installation of longitudinal boards begin with the calculation of the middle on the supports. The first long board is fixed clearly to the center of the supports on the screws. Later for the reinforcement of the structure will be used metal corners, they will need to be fixed at the junction of the supports and the longitudinal boards. The number of longitudinal boards can be calculated if the circumference is divided by the width of one board. For these purposes, take a board with a thickness of 40 mm. After the installation of the first central board, all the others are installed in succession by a slot connection method. Carefully monitor the tightness of the structure. Boards do not interfere well beforehand, they can be treated with antifungal agents that are as safe as possible for humans. The installation of the boards continues until the surface of the supports is completely covered. After this, corrective strips are mounted;
- installation of vertical walls ( ends and partitions).They are made of square-shaped shields, from which a circle of the required size is cut out with an electric jigsaw. It marks the location of doors, windows and aisles, after which the jigsaw is again cut. A door will be located at the entrance, a window at the opposite end, the number of partitions is regulated by the project. Vertical walls and partitions are attached to the base and at this stage should be so strong as to hold on without help;
- ends with the installation of longitudinal boards and is carried out by tightening them with steel clamps , which are fastened to the frame with bolts and nuts. The screed will provide additional strength and reduce heat loss in the process of operating the structure;
- installation of doors and windows, joints caulk, sealed with sealant;
- roof covered with soft tiles or metal sheets;
- final touch - arrangement of internal space .At this stage, a drain hole is made and pipes are connected, wooden grating is performed, shelves, a table, benches, etc. are mounted. Install the heating equipment and the fence around it, the chimney with heat insulation around it is removed. Water pipes are also supplied, they are connected to the stove and the shower, all the necessary sanitary equipment is installed. Do not forget to lay the wiring;
- as an heater can be used as a traditional wood or electric stove. The main thing is that her size was small. Around the firebox, walls and floor are sheathed with protective materials;
- all wooden elements can be treated with linseed oil to protect the surface from rotting and deformation;
- , if desired, you can perform external insulation.
This is not a very simple matter, so think seven times before getting to work. It is easier and often cheaper( given the mass of possible errors in the process of self-installation, for which you have to pay) to turn to professionals. A compromise option is to buy a complete set of bath-drums, which can be simply assembled on site according to the instructions.