Features of the manufacture of paving slabs - TOP 5 tips and tricks

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Contents

  1. №1.Forms for tiles
  • Wooden forms
  • Plaster forms
  • Plastic forms
  • Silicone forms
  • Polyurethane forms
  • №2.Choose the raw material
  • №3.Coloring tiles
  • №4.Impurities and additives for strengthening tiles
  • №5.Equipment
  • Conclusion, or How is the control of
  • done? Why make tiles on your own if you can buy it, because there are many manufacturers and shops selling this material in any city? The answer lies on the surface. Being engaged in the whole process personally, you can get good savings, confidence in quality and unique tile design. Masters say that over the summer, at a quiet pace, you can make as many tiles as possible to lay out an area of ​​about 500 m2.Some people are so addicted to the process that they make simple saving a lifelong business. Production of tiles on a small scale does not require large expenditures; therefore, it is an excellent option of the fast-paid business without large investments. Whatever it was, first you need to know all the features of making tiles with your own hands in order to be able to weigh everything and decide whether to do such a thing.

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    №1.Forms for tiles

    The process of making paving slabs itself is quite simple. It is necessary to make a solution, pour it into the prepared forms and let it dry. At each stage there are some nuances, and we will begin their analysis from the forms.

    Forms for tiles can be ready-made or homemade. Buying ready-made forms significantly reduces time costs. If you find a good manufacturer, then this will ensure optimal product quality, since it is unlikely that you can achieve the desired result the first time when making molds yourself. There is also a large range of samples, which can be selected on the basis of the goals and the raw materials used.

    Piece Finished Forms The can be used as for casting by casting tiles or by allowing to be cast directly into an block. If you need to lay out the track with a regular pattern, it is better to take piece forms. The blocks are great for creating imitations of natural stone, and tiles come out much cheaper.

    Ready block for casting tiles

    According to material manufactured by , ready-made molds can be rubber( up to 450 castings), plastic( up to 250 castings) or polyurethane( up to 100 castings).Design options and design weight. There is always something to choose from.

    You can purchase liquid silicone for the molds and make the molds yourself. This idea is in demand when creating unique matrices. However, it is useful to know a lot of specific features in order for the product to turn out a proper look.

    Wooden forms

    Suitable when it is necessary to cast tiles of simple form, for example, rectangular, square. It is a formwork, parts of which are made of wooden slats, connected with nails. It is quickly and easily manufactured, but will not survive repeated use due to moisture, and is not suitable for creating forms of complex configurations. In addition, many modern matrices have no formwork, which simplifies the process of removing, but here you will have to make more efforts at the end.

    If the tile is made only for oneself and not for sale, then it is possible to make a form from planks or bars, thanks to which can be cast into a tile that simulates a chaotic form of natural stone. Knowing the simple features of human perception of the surrounding world, you can get by with a minimal number of forms to create the effect of non-repetitive elements.

    The method of making the form is:

    • draw the upper and lower sides of the form whatever you like, as long as the blank fits into the square;
    • now needs to draw each of the previously created lines in mirror image and rotate it 90 degrees. Thus we obtain two horizontal sides of the form;
    • clean the internal space as you please, avoiding only central symmetry;When casting,
    • will need to be rotated 90 degrees each time.

    This form is suitable for casting tiles directly at the place where it will lie. This is not the most durable, but simple, fast and cheap option.

    Plaster Forms

    Comfortable, practical and easy to produce. To obtain this form, coat the element you like( after having been smeared with a special lubricant, you can dilute the soap with water) with a plaster mix, which is mixed immediately before use. Then all this is placed in the workpiece and left to freeze.

    Such a pattern makes it possible to identically repeat the geometry and patterns, but the minus is fragility. To eliminate this, there are various additives.

    Plastic forms

    Plastic forms can boast of sufficient wear resistance and durability, they repeat the pattern well. Products are not afraid of chemically active substances, resistant to mechanical loads. They can pour concrete, polymers and other materials. Another plus of such forms is that patterns and edges are not erased for a long time, and the inexpensive cost of this type of forms makes them extremely popular.

    Silicone forms

    The most universal variety, since it has the advantages of all the above types :

    • strength and resistance to stress;
    • design does not stretch and does not change;
    • withstands a large number of cycles;
    • is not afraid of significant temperatures;
    • repeats relief with perfect accuracy;
    • suitable for cement, plaster, polymers;
    • does not require a lot of effort when extracting, the product is not damaged.

    The elasticity of silicone plays a cruel joke with it: under the influence of heavy concrete, the form can expand and swell.

    If you are planning to make tiles only for yourself( for example, for organizing the local area and garden paths), then it is better not to bother with the manufacture of silicone molds. If the case is put on stream, then the game is worth the candle. For the manufacture of silicone forms using different compositions, but the three-component liquid is the most optimal of all.

    When making the preparation, it is necessary to adhere to the following steps:

    1. In the construction where the matrix-base will be installed, first sculpted clay is laid."The cast" can be removed from the stone you like shape, board and other elements.
    2. Then put the matrix, which is smeared with a special solution, so that the silicone does not stick.
    3. After ensuring that the mixture is ready and that there are no bubbles, slowly pour in the liquid and allow it to solidify.

    Polyurethane forms

    Creating a polyurethane pattern at home is more difficult, because it requires special protection and good ventilation of the room. It is necessary to work carefully in glasses and overalls, and only having filled your hand you will be able to get a billet of a decent level. A quality product has high strength and flexibility, does not require demolding, allows you to transfer relief, better than silicone, keeps its shape. The main disadvantage is the higher price.

    №2.Choosing

    raw materials. It will be necessary to pour something into the forms, and the performance of the tile directly depends on this “something”.Most often today such materials are used:

    1. The cement mix can consist of cement and sand in a different ratio. Sometimes additives are added to strengthen: expanded clay, polymers, glue, fiberglass, etc. It all depends on the tasks. For the production of paving slabs, stones that will be applicable when finishing on the street, the is the strongest cement brand M500 , but sometimes M400 is used. This allows you to make durable, durable goods. To check the quality of cement, you need to compress it, and if a lump is formed, then such raw materials should not be taken. To obtain a plastic structure, add lime. Hardened building materials will last for many years, withstand the stresses of the environment, they can be laid garden paths and even the floor in the rooms. Excellent tile replacement. There are a lot of options to prepare the solution, but at home you can use the following recipe: cement M400 or M500 - 25%, sand fraction 0.4-0.6 mm - 20%, screenings - 55%, also add a little plasticizer. Water approximately 15-17 liters for every 20 kg of cement - the solution should be granular, kasheobraznym, not disintegrate into lumps. The following proportions can be used for making colored tiles: cement 20 kg, sand 35 kg, crushed stone 35 kg, plasticizer 70 g, colored pigment - 0.5-0.7 kg. In the industrial environment, colored tiles make layered so as not to sacrifice the quality of the product, but to produce a laminated tile at home without a high-quality vibrating table with damping unnecessary vibrations will not work.

      One of the recipes for making cement mortar for tiles

      . Sequence of adding components to the mix and preparation time

      .With their help, it is possible to create even an imitation of sawn wood, mosaics, pebbles, etc. For outdoor use additives are added to improve moisture resistance. When mixed with other components, gypsum concrete is formed, which has a stronger structure.

    2. Polymer-sand are becoming more popular every day. The bulk, almost three-quarters, is sand( not river, and quartz).The rest is polystyrene, polypropylene. Feature of the composition is an incredible hardening, it will withstand temperatures up to -700C, is not afraid of sudden changes in temperature, moisture, wear-resistant. With this composition you can achieve a matte and glossy surface. There is no marriage in the production process. The downside is that you can’t do without special equipment.
    3. By the way, warehousing and storage are factors that also affect the properties of a product.

      №3.Dyeing tiles

      Color pigment affects the properties of the product , so it is important to choose the right proportions and not to overdo it with the amount of dye. It is better to take a more saturated color than add a lot of paint in anticipation of the desired shade.

      So, there are two ways of applying paint:

      • Surface , i.e.drawing dye at the end. First, the plane is carefully prepared: cleaned of debris and ground in order to achieve maximum adhesion. For the street, this view is not suitable, because when exposed to rain, snow, wind, sun and other factors, the pigment is washed off, and the color goes away.
      • Penetrating - adding pigment directly to the solution. This method makes the tone more resistant. Only it is necessary to properly clean all contacting devices so that the color does not mix, or use, for example, several blanks to fill tiles of different colors.

      №4.Impurities and additives to strengthen the tile

      For concrete, there are several options for strengthening additives:

      1. Gravel is used to harden the structure.
      2. Polypropylene yarns( fiber) are needed to improve wear resistance, durability, prolong the life of building material.
      3. There are special additives that increase resistance to shock, temperature shocks, etc.are selected individually.
      4. Plasticizer increases frost resistance and abrasion resistance.

      For gypsum, it is enough to add a little plasticizer, cement. This will positively affect the strength, the element will not be so fragile.

      №5.Equipment

      When large-scale production can not do without special equipment. From the point of view of the technology used in the production, pavement tiles are divided into vibrocast and selected. Naturally, in the manufacture of various machines are used:

      • vibrocast tile is made by installing the filled-in forms on the vibrating surface. Under the influence of vibration, the solution is evenly distributed in shape, and all the bubbles come out. After this, the molds are dried on racks for 2-3 days, then the resulting tile is removed and dried. The result is a fairly durable product. Such technology is massively used in private construction and in small enterprises;The
      • vibropressed tile is obtained in a similar way, but the vibrating solution in the forms is additionally pressed with special equipment. As a result, the tile turns out more dense and wear-resistant, suitable for laying in places with high load. Drying is carried out in special chambers. Thus, the tile is manufactured in the factory, it surpasses the vibro-cast in its performance, but is inferior to it in terms of the variety of shapes and shades.

      During vibratory casting, a special vibrating table is needed. It is an ordinary table, the surface of which vibrates, is manual and automatic. You can buy ready-made equipment or make it yourself. If the tile is necessary in order to pave the footpaths, then the most primitive device will suffice: a thick plate is put on the old tire( as from an old kitchen stove on wood), and an electric jigsaw or other vibration-generating tool is placed in the middle. Turn on the device in the outlet and set the form, but it is difficult to achieve complete degassing in this way. If you put the case on the flow, you can not do without professional equipment.

      Keep in mind that under the influence of vibration, the solution gives a foam that rises and then begins to settle. At this very moment it is necessary to stop the process, otherwise the composition may stratify. To make a two-layer tile( the first layer is gray, the second color), the form is filled with 2/3 colorless composition and wait for the foam to appear and settle, then add the color solution, wait 2-3 minutes and remove the form from the vibrating table.

      The vibropress technology will require .There are devices manual and automated. You can choose a model equipped with a concrete mixer. Automatic installations are convenient for large plants; private companies are suitable for manual ones. At the same time, the vibromachine is not as effective as the vibropress. However, with the correct casting of modern forms, such devices will be needed only for large enterprises.

      From the tools, you will need an puncher with a mixing nozzle or a concrete mixer( it all depends on the volume of production), a container for dosing the components of the mixture and kneading. It is also better to prepare racks for drying tiles.

      Drying in natural conditions in summer in the middle lane takes about 16 hours. To remove the tile from the mold, the latter can be turned over and shaken. The piece can be lowered into a bowl of water so that the water reaches the side of the form, then move it to a bowl of hot water. Due to the temperature difference, the shape will increase slightly, and the tile will fall out by itself.

      It is better not to use the finished tile right away - let it work for 5-7 days and gain maximum strength.

      Conclusion, or How is

      monitored? Known factories with huge sales volumes use computer equipment to check, allowing you to track the slightest damage, defects and shortcomings. But you can do without it.

      Everyone wants to know how to establish the good quality of goods in artisanal conditions. First of all, a visual inspection is necessary: ​​we look at any defects, if a pattern or a drawing is taken. Inspect the corners carefully for chips.

      You can determine if the proportions are correct using sound. Take two plates and knock them. If the sound is deaf, then something is wrong, it should sound loud. This rule is valid not only in the case of ceramic tiles , but also with cement.

      It should be remembered that not only the price of facing building materials is important to the consumer, but also the characteristics that affect operation. Therefore, you should not reduce the cost to the detriment of quality, and look for other opportunities.

      Tags: Paving Tiles
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