South Korean brand LG washing machines is very popular due to its reliability and versatility. There it difficult technical components and simple details, which can cope with a unit replacement. Optionally, after the detection of abnormal operation immediately run a service center. And to save where you can not spend, always helpful, right?
Who wishes to repair the washing machine LG with their own hands, we know all about the common types of failures and methods of dealing with violations of the stiralki. With our help, the independent repairers will solve any technical problem with no problems or difficulties.
The proposed your attention the article thoroughly understand types of failures that occur in the operation of machines LG. Variants troubleshooting based on the manufacturer's recommendations, and design features. Visual video and photo applications will assist in the development of a difficult topic.
The content of the article:
- The principle of operation of the washing machine
- Common types of damage
Diagnostics and repair of the main units of the machine
- Replacing the drain pump according to the rules
- Installation of a new water heater
- Repair options filler valve
- Replacing the pressure switch with his own hands
- Recommendations for repair information
- Instructions for replacing the bearings
- Conclusions and useful videos on the topic
The principle of operation of the washing machine
What does the washing machine? In fact, she pours the water into the body, heats it and turns the drum is filled with dirty laundry. This occurs in a certain way, which ultimately leads to cleaning of linen from contamination.
Now in more detail. Once the wash program is started, first opens the water supply valve. Water poured through the dispenser tank.
Typical for washing machines LG faults occur most frequently during operation are listed in the instructions to the unit
Important parts of the machine, you need to know:
- batcher - the detergent dispenser.
- Tank - a plastic container in which the drum and a heating element (heater). It is filled with water.
- Pressure switch - the same pressure switch. In washing machines, monitors the water level.
- TEN - a tubular heater. Warm water.
Pressure switch gives the go-ahead to cut off the water as soon as the required volume is dialed. Then the heater is switched. Next to Taine there is always a water temperature sensor (thermostat). As soon as he reports, that the water is heated to the desired temperature strictly, it takes the motor that rotates the drum.
Toward the end of the wash starts water pump - so often referred to as a water drain pump. On it ends with "production cycle" of the washing machine and it starts with the analysis of typical faults LG brand machines.
The circuit device of the washing machine with a horizontal loading. To start the repair, it is necessary to get acquainted with all the details of their appointment
Common types of damage
Units for washing machines - is electro-mechanical devices that move under the influence of the current. They work under load, are exposed to tap water and temperature extremes. Here is a list of what can go wrong:
- door opener;
- filler valve;
- pressure switch;
- temperature sensor;
- speed sensor ( "Hall sensor");
- Drum bearings;
- water pump;
- electrician (wiring);
- seals and hoses.
If the machine is steam drying and processing functions, then added a few points: steam generator, air heater, the fan, air temperature sensor.
The current generation of washing machines equipped with a direct drive. The engine in such systems crashes far less often than other sites
But the most popular reasons for contacting a service center - a failure of the pump, PETN filling valve, pressure switch, electrical and bearings.
Overall, LG machine is very reliable and, compared to other common names in Russia, much less break.
Diagnostics and repair of the main units of the machine
Washing machines are not much different from each other. descriptions listed here will help you to orient in their device (even if your machine is not LG).
The first stage of repair work - diagnostics. Do not start replacing parts, making sure not to end in failure reason. On failure of a particular element indicate special features. The new generation of machines existing code-hint system to help determine the location and cause of the failure.
For assembly / disassembly of the housing, dismantle stiralki authorities need to prepare in advance easy to use tool. If there is suspicion of a problem in the electrical part, it is desirable to stock a multimeter
For most operations, you only need to cross a screwdriver. In some ways, help pliers and wire cutters, and somewhere will have to use the keys and heads 10 and 14. For more complex repairs (eg replacement of bearings) and need more contraptions.
it is recommended to take masking tape and markers to facilitate the task. Before removing the wires, mark them labels of Scotch tape with colored numbers. Take a picture, so you are guaranteed to assemble correctly.
Very help building level. After repairs will need to make sure that the machine is level and adjust the feet as needed
Most components and separate washing machine devices not Stalling. For example, when the burn TEN, It needs to be changed entirely. To find the right model for sale, find the model number of your machine ( "Model No") And its serial number ("S / No" or "Serial No”). They are written on a sticker or plate. Look for it on the body: under the door of the drum, rear, side.
Before installing the new part again, make sure to turn off the plug. Many sites work on the deadly 220 volts.
Replacing the drain pump according to the rules
Washing machine does not drain, the display shows an error code "OE". It's simple - it's the pump, with it is not necessarily broken.
Usually during draining clearly distinctive sound is heard - the impeller of the pump rotates. You can see it in the work, not even examining the car. To do this, open the large round tube - it is in the lower right corner, under a hatch or a plastic plate by snap. Be careful: the water will pour!
Tube pump is in one piece with the filter. Filter task - not to get debris into the impeller. It is recommended to clean it after two or three sessions of washing, and old machines each time to complete the workflow
Even if the wheel is not spinning, it could just be clogged. The first step is drain the water. Near a large round plugs you can find a thin tube closed a small cork. Substituting a large flat container, gently pull the tube and open it. And be patient.
Another method for drain - lower drain hose to floor level. Most likely, it is fixed terminals on the rear wall. When the tank is empty, you can safely open the stopper and pump to get everything extraneous that you find there.
It is possible that all the problems have been associated with a blockage of the drainage system. It should be trivial to clean, what more can help video instruction:
If the pump is still broken, it will have little to disassemble the machine:
- Remove the plug from the socket.
- Remove the dispenser. It will be necessary to tilt the machine and in the dispenser usually remains water that may spill.
- Remove the bottom of the plastic panel. It is secured with two screws and latches on the perimeter.
- Tilt the machine or put it on your left side (pump, usually located on the right).
You can now test the pump multimeter and remove it. Even if OK electric circuit, The pump can wear mechanically. In such cases, the machine does not always agree to drain the water, and the impeller can hang on its axis.
drain pump system requires a careful study of the state of both mechanical and electrical parts. True practice proves that the vast majority of damage is due to blockage of the device
So you troubleshoot the pump and are not sure that it works. You can take the unit into service of household appliances, is guaranteed to see whether it properly.
If you are sure that a fault - me, for this:
- Unplug the power cord.
- Remove the dispenser - perhaps in it there is water.
- Remove the bottom of the plastic panel: loosen the two screws and carefully pry edge, starting from the top. It is better to do it with a chisel than a screwdriver - there will be less damage.
- Put the car on the left side.
To connect the pump wires and hoses. Wiring terminals are pulled out hands (do not forget to mark and photograph them). To remove the hose, you need to loosen the clamps with your fingers or pliers. When everything is turned off, unscrew the three self-tapping screws around the filter plug.
Pump without filter - a kind directly and laterally. Most often, buy a pump assembly with a filter is not necessary, since the filter does not need to be replaced
Perhaps you will not find in selling the exact same item. But the species of drain pumps quite a bit, and almost every suited to dozens of different models of washing machines. Perhaps the easiest way to apply for a new replacement part to the nearest service.
Before installing a new pump, clean the dirt and deposits. They can greatly affect the life of the impeller.
Will be more convenient to fasten the pump screws first, then connect the hoses and wires. Do not forget to close the cap. Place the machine on and run the "no-load" some very short cycle, for example, the "Rinse and extraction”. Making sure that everything is working, you can collect the car completely.
After replacing the drain pump is not necessary to collect the body immediately. First you have to check the work of the newly installed device. Make sure it is working by running one of the short programs
Installation of a new water heater
Error code - "HE". Another feature - a cold glass of the door, while on the program of the water should be 40 ° C.
To ensure that the heater is defective, you need to remove the back cover, this will require a Phillips screwdriver. Please unplug and then remove the four self-tapping screws and pull the cover slightly upwards.
The heating element is at the bottom of the tank, it is approached the three wires. Medium - ground and extreme - is power, 220 volts. Disconnect the terminals and check that the heater multimeter.
Measure the resistance at power terminals - should be within 200 ohm, but above zero. If the device shows the unit, then spiral burned
Disconnect the wires. to retrieve TEN, You need to unscrew the nut in the middle and "drown" pin. Helping a screwdriver, pull the heater far out.
Now remove the rubber seal, hooking the edges of a flat screwdriver. Do not touch the edges of the hole it! The slightest break notch seal.
After loosening the nut and extracting the seal heater must climb freely. Protect plastic visor on Tan - he is easily broken
The new heating element is sold complete with a seal. Buying it, you are sure to pay attention to the lack of internal elastic collar: do not let that bother. It was formed over time, as the seal is clamped between the heater and the inner plate.
Perhaps in your heater integrated temperature sensor. If it is OK, then change it is not necessary.
Inside the tank there Bracket - heater should get into it. Inserting it through, rotate the drum by hand. If you hear a scraping sound - TEN was above the bracket. There is also a danger of overshoot below and then suffer from a high temperature tank.
Now tighten the nut, but without too much effort. Pour in the water tank. It may be directly through the drum, for example, from a shower. Make sure that the seal does not leak, just tighten the nut if necessary.
Professional guidance on heating element replacement is represented in the video:
Repair options filler valve
Problems with the inlet valve can be shown in different ways.
If the machine receives little water may be clogged inlet strainer. For its cleaning water inlet hose is disconnected, the mesh is extracted and purified it by mechanical means, for example, by washing under running water or toothpick
Problem # 1. Water is dialed slowly, the powder in the dispenser is not washed off completely. Maybe to blame a weak water pressure. If not - then clogged filter.
- Shut off the water supply to the washing machine.
- Unscrew the water inlet hose directly at the entrance to the car.
- Pliers, remove the filter.
Most likely, the plastic mesh is clogged. It can be cleaned under running water with a toothpick.
Problem # 2. Water is not reached. Can display an error code "IE".
First check the filter as described in the previous paragraph. If cleaning does not help, you need to get to the valve and check the multimeter. To do this, unplug the power cord and remove the top cover - it is secured with two screws at the rear. Unscrewing them, slide the cover back a little, and then it comes off effortlessly.
The inlet valve is easy to guess, is just at the point where the filler hose is screwed. Valves can be from one to five, but most of them two
Once again, make sure the power cord is not in the socket. Now disconnect the terminals from the valves. Multimeter to check the resistance: should be in the range of 2.5 - 4 kW.
Problem # 3. The machine does not wash, but inside the rushing water. Check the electrical part of the valve is pointless - it's mechanical wear. Valve - not a very expensive item, it usually does not mend. In any case, mark the wires and take a picture as it was. Replacement procedure:
- Unplug (often served on the valve 220).
- Shut off the water.
- Remove the top cover by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws from behind and pushing it back a little.
- Disconnect the wires and hoses from the valve.
The valve is fastened with screws or special latches. In the second case it is necessary to rotate while pressing the plastic bulge on the outside. With the installation of the new complexity parts should not be.
Replacing the pressure switch with his own hands
When crashes pressure switch, The car is gaining too much water. It happens that the water is dialed and merges at the same time. Sometimes the failure of this sensor is shown in the depressed bad underwear. The display can show the error code "PE".
Pressure switch is located below the lid, usually right in the corner. To him summed thin hose and electric wires
Remove the sensor is easy. Unplug the power cord, remove the top cover by unscrewing the two self-tapping screws from behind and pushing it back a little.
Fastens it with one screw. First disconnect the negative terminal, then remove the gauge, and at the end disconnect the hose. To check pressure switch, It is necessary to blow. The proper Pressure switches you hear a click. install a new pressure switch in reverse order.
Recommendations for repair information
The most difficult to diagnose faults in the wiring. Stiralki electrician is responsible for the operation of all systems, and violations of the contacts leads to a variety of consequences.
If you are not sure what went wrong, check the electrics. Unplug it, open the rear cover and top cover. You can remove the bottom plastic cover, if there is a problem with drainage. Systematically inspect all wires and connections:
- The terminals should be clean and shiny.
- Wire colors should be bright and uniform.
- The water should not fall on the wires and contacts.
On examination, the viscera stiralki you can detect problems with the wiring. It can be:
- oxidised (white or green plaque rough);
- darkened or bleached insulation;
- partially shattered, cracked or Burned insulation;
- wet contacts.
If your contacts are exposed to water, they need to wipe or dry. Be sure to remove the leak. Oxidised terminals clean enough. Perhaps, they are constantly gets wet, so you have to find and eliminate the cause.
Darkening on wires - a sign of overheating. The reason - besides poor contact. The insulation must be intact, as well as clamps, which are secured wire
Oxidised should be replaced. If possible, locate the opposite end of the wire and replace it entirely. For such repairs will have to make friends with a soldering iron 60 watt. As you can clean up the contact, but make a re-examination of a couple of weeks as a temporary measure.
If you violate the wire insulation clearly needs to be replaced. Darkened insulation - as a sign of poor contact and, as a consequence, the wires overheating. Sooner or later, the insulation melts, it may be a short circuit and a fire.
Instructions for replacing the bearings
This is perhaps the biggest workaholic in the washing machine. They carry the entire load of the rotating wet laundry and drum weight. Spoiled bearing hear at once: an unpleasant hum, especially loud during the spin cycle.
Bearings are protected against water gland, which can also wear. In this case, the water will seep into the bearings, and while waiting for their slow but certain death.
Buzz - it is a reliable indicator. As soon as it appeared, tackle repairs without delay. Procrastination can lead to more costly consequences.
Two bearings - the only thing that holds the drum in a horizontal position. If wear is excessive bearing wear tank begins and crosses (bracket)
Replacing the bearings - the most difficult of the operations described herein. But, ignoring the buzz, you risk even more complicate things.
Due to the damaged bearing drum rotates with an effort. Bearings begin to break up the tank and a power element of the drum - the crossbar. There is a possibility that the bearings have started to rust due to wear and tear gland. In this case, the water will flow from the tank to the engine. Imagine the consequences.
Delaying the replacement of the bearing, you run the risk of completely lose the crossbar, tank and even the engine. Repairs will cost much more
To replace the bearings need to disassemble almost the entire machine. The idea is to remove the tank, take it apart and pulled out a drum.
To work in addition screwdrivers need:
- 10 head;
- key or the head 14;
- wire cutters;
- clamps for wiring (polypropylene couplers);
- simple silicone sealant (no glue!).
It is also very help gloves and a flashlight.
Unplug the power cord. Remove the back wall and disconnect the wires to the motor and the heater. Remove all fasteners that are held fixed to the tank, wire cutters, cut the straps. Sam tank hangs on two springs and two shock absorbers is supported from below.
How to remove the dispenser drawer: press the latch in the middle. Generally it is sometimes useful to remove and wash, so as not to form a mold
Most likely, you have a machine with a direct drive. Hence, it is necessary to remove the motor. Unscrew the central screw holding the drum by hand.
Be careful not to cut yourself on the edge of the housing. Remove the rotor (the movable part of the motor), then unscrew and remove the stator (respectively the fixed part).
In the washing machine with a belt drive, you must first remove the belt: pull it out and turn the pulley (wheel). The belt can be easily removed. The pulley also need to unscrew
Around the hatch, which is loaded laundry, there is a large gray collar. It covers the clamp with a spring. Find this spring, and picked up her screwdriver, remove the clamp.
After dismantling the clamp proceed as follows:
- Now you can remove the front panel. Her hold screws on the top and bottom edges. Pull the bar up a bit. Disconnect the wires leading to the castle.
- Remove the tubes from the bottom (inside can remain water!) And thin hose going up to the pressure switch.
- Remove the jumper, on which rested the front edge of the top cover.
- Remove the dispenser and the filling valve.
- Head to remove the counterweights 10 - one at the top and two at the front.
It remains to disconnect dampers. They are fastened with plastic pins; press the spring latch at the pointed ends of the pins and remove them (you can with pliers).
Make sure you disconnect all. Now you can lift the tank and unhook the spring. Gently pull the tank forward. Do not forget that from the bottom screwed water level control tube, which can be accidentally broken. For peace of mind you can remove it.
Next will be easier to work on the table. At this stage, you need to disassemble the tank and pull out the oil seal and bearings. The tank consists of two parts, twisted screws under head 10. Disassemble the tank. The drum is simply removed from the back half of the tank without much difficulty. Next, we need only the rear half (forecastle). When working with it remember the TEN - not to bend and not break it.
Greatly facilitate the task of the internal bearing puller. If you do not have such a tool, emboss them with a hammer and punch. As the punch can use any suitable length of rod
In the center of the forecastle, on the inside, you will see the gland. It is also definitely need to be replaced.
It will not be difficult to get him out, using anything as a lever (eg, a flat screwdriver). Put forecastle outer side up and slip the punch through the outer bearing - first internal knock.
Beat gently! If the bearing is skewed, it could harm a forecastle. Strikes should not be strong. Alternate point of impact on a "criss-cross": first hit to the left, then on the right, then at the top, then the bottom, and so on in the same order. Make sure the bearings went smoothly, without distortions.
Scoring bearing proceed cautiously. Hit only the outer cage. Instead of the punch better use of suitable diameter pipe
External bearing is knocked out on the same principle, only the forecastle and support the need to flip the bearing is "hanging" over the table.
Installation of new bearings and seals require even more caution. You can only beat the outer ring of the bearing. Using the punch, always check whether the bearing is twisted.
A comprehensive briefing on the bearing replacement with all the nuances present a video:
Putting a new oil seal should also be careful - it is easy to bend. Do not attempt to straighten it, better buy another.
Slight defects when installing these parts will result in leakage - water gets more bearings and the motor. Before assembly, try to clean the drum axle. Do not scratch it and do not treat sandpaper.
The drum must be easy to get into the bearings. Before collecting tank, put in place with silicon sealant. Combining the forecastle, make sure that TEN hit the bracket is intended for it. Do not tighten the screws go all out - this is not necessary. Due to the sealant compound is sufficiently reliable.
If all the actions were made correctly bearing replacement, tank easily join the site. After installing the junction need to be sealed
Screw the pipe to the tank water level control. Then you will collect the car remains. Difficulties should not be. It is more convenient to work in the following order:
- Hang tank springs attach dampers.
- Connect the hose pressure switch and fasten it to the tank. "Excess" hose length must stay at the top.
- Install the counterweights.
- Attach the lower nozzles.
- Screw the stator of the motor, connect the connectors to the stator and TENu, secure the wires with clamps and brackets.
- Replace the drawer and the filling valve, connect the pipes and wires.
- Screw the upper front crosspiece.
- Place the large front panel after connecting connector lock.
- Pull the edge of the cuff and push it onto the rim around the hatch. Put on the cuff clamp.
- Set the motor rotor (or pulley). Tightening the central screw, hold the tank by hand from the front.
- Connect the wires to the top panel and install it.
Double-check everything is connected and secured.
Before installing the remaining panels can run a short program "idle" to check the tightness of all connections. Place the machine into place, align its level.
Conclusions and useful videos on the topic
Replacement parts in the washing machine - the responsible thing. To take into account all the nuances and perform the work as "excellent", offer useful information to explore the nuances of assembling and disassembling the LG machines presented in the video:
So, you are familiar with the most common faults of washing machines LG. To repair their own hands is not always easy, but it is possible. Try! Good luck to you repair!