Planting and care for the Far Eastern beauty of actinidia in different regions of Russia and Ukraine

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care video after planting in Siberia -


care after landing in Siberia - video


after planting Actinidia in Siberia - video


after planting Actinidia in Siberia - video


after planting after Siberian planting in Actinidia in Siberia -


care after landing in Siberia -


care after planting after planting in Siberia - the


planting planting plant in Siberia -


plant care after planting

  • and the more fruit not so many large plants-lian. An example of unpretentious winter-hardy culture is actinidia, planting and caring for which, with the right variety of varieties, give consistently positive results.
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    Among the advantages of actinidia is not only the ability to endure cold and to grow for a long time without transplantation, perfectly planting its corner of the site, but also actively bring tasty and healthy fruits. With the advent of hardy varieties of domestic breeding, it became possible to obtain stable yields in the central regions of the country, and in the North-West, and when growing actinidia in Siberia.

    There are many advantages of culture, the number of fans is also increasing, but before choosing a place for the future gardener, you need to learn something about the nature of the plant and the characteristics of its planting.

    Both botanists and experienced gardeners have been arguing about actinidia self-sterility for many years. One glance at the flowering creepers is enough to notice the "gender" of one or another specimen. To pollinate female flowers, pollen is needed, which insects or wind carry from male specimens. Therefore, to obtain a crop, you need to plan the planting of a couple or more seedlings at once.

    One can hear that the female plants of actinidia bear fruit without pollination, but this is rather the exception. To know exactly the "floor" of the sapling, for planting actinidia, you must contact verified nurseries or online stores.

    The timing of planting anemone and the care of seedlings

    The traditional time for planting actinidia is spring. Since plants that are not afraid of the winter cold, with the onset of heat, wake up and actively come to life, almost everywhere in the territory of the central zone and to the north they can suffer from insidious spring frosts. Therefore, it is important that the seedlings fall into the ground before the beginning of the growing season, that is, in April or a little later, if we are talking about planting actinidia and caring for it in the Urals, east or northwest.

    Spring is the best time to settle in a new place of residence and young plants, up to 3 years of age, and transplanted large specimens. If the landing of the actinidia in the spring for some reason failed, the appropriate time is in the autumn. Here the most important thing is to choose the right moment, otherwise the plant that failed to take root is cut off from food, falls into an extremely stressful situation. Not only does it go under the winter not quite prepared, in March and April there is often a change of thaw and frost. Therefore, there is a great risk that the garden vine may freeze or even die.

    In order to simplify the subsequent care of actinidia, it is better to plan the landing for a period of 3-4 weeks before the average arrival of autumn frosts.

    Choosing a site for planting actinidia

    Actinidian tree-like creepers in nature settle under the canopy of trees and as they grow they climb up the trunks and branches upwards. In the garden for this culture, you need to find a place so that the plant for many years to come will be provided:

    • space for growth;
    • reliable support;
    • cold wind protection;
    • suitable loose soil with a neutral or slightly acid reaction.
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    In order not to waste time on protecting plants from frost, sunburn or sunbathing, they try to facilitate the care of actinidia, planting in the Leningrad region and other northern regions north or northeast of buildings and fences. Here, the vine will reveal the leaves a little later, but it will definitely not suffer from the returning frosts and the ice crust forming on the sun.

    The south, the faster the snow melts. Therefore, already in the middle lane, as well as when planting and caring for actinidia in Ukraine, in the Russian Kuban and in the Crimea, there are fewer restrictions on choosing a place. Sunny summer burns to the crop are not terrible, the fruits need sun or light penumbra, and young plants need protection from the wind.

    Actinidia pollen can be transported over long distances, and yet it is better to plant male and female plants in close proximity, but no less than one or two meters apart.

    Spruce to create a living wall of actinidia Kolomikta, landing at an interval of about 60 cm is allowed. For large plantations, it is convenient to use the landing located from north to south in rows. In this case, the plants in the spring get longer thawed moisture and evenly illuminated.


    Actinidia planting and

    seedlings care. Actinidia planting pits are prepared for two weeks before transferring seedlings to the ground. For two-year-old plants, there are enough pits with a depth and width of no more than half a meter. At the bottom it is useful to triple the drainage of expanded clay, broken brick or medium-sized pebbles. So that the actinidia after transplantation quickly goes into growth, the soil is mixed with well-moved humus or peat mixed with a complex fertilizer based on nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The landing pit may require:

    • 8–10 kg of humus;
    • 200 grams of superphosphate;
    • 50 grams of ammonium nitrate;
    • 80 grams of potash fertilizer or two glasses of sifted wood ash.

    It is impossible to use drugs with chlorine, which inhibits the growth of actinidia, fresh manure and lime. Soil, especially with peat, is useful to deoxidize.

    When a place has been prepared for planting, care for actinidia consists in treating its root system. The roots of the plant are susceptible to drying, therefore, after removing dead or damaged parts, it is better to dip them in a liquid clay solution.

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    correctly In the landing pit the seedling is placed on a hill of nutrient-rich soil. The root system is straightened, a support is installed next to it, which will be the first to assume the weight of the growing liana. After that, the seedling is gently sprinkled so that the root neck of the plant does not go under the soil. Landing site:

    • compacted to ensure actinidia stability and eliminate sinks after watering;
    • plentifully shed with warm, settled water;
    • mulch with peat-humus mixture.

    In the future, when young actinidia grows up, it will require a more powerful support, for example, a trellis or arch, fence or wall of a house.

    In addition to the support, the seedling at the beginning of life needs protection from cats, often gnawing or simply breaking the plant. Therefore, around the stem make the fence from a metal or a strong plastic mesh with a height of about half a meter.

    Actinidia care after planting

    The Far Eastern beauty of actinidia when planting and caring in the Moscow region and other areas of the middle zone has established itself as a docile and non-capricious culture. For good growth and stable fruiting, actinidia requires:

    • watering, and during hot dry periods and sprinkling;
    • triple feeding;
    • forming and sanitary pruning;
    • weeding and surface loosening of pristvolny circles.
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    Watering and sprinkling are carried out in the early morning or in the evening, so that before the sun appears, the leaves dry out and are not covered with burn spots.

    Fertilizers are applied three times:

    • in the spring, to maintain actinidia after wintering and its preparation for flowering;
    • in the summer when the shoots are covered with ovaries;
    • at the beginning of autumn after gathering fruits, to prepare the plant for winter.

    Spring dressing should contain 2 parts of nitrogen fertilizers and one part of potash and phosphorus additives. In the summer, the proportions are the same, but the concentration of the composition is halved. In the fall, in order for the vine to slow down the formation of foliage, new shoots and strengthen the already existing branches, it is supplied with potassium and phosphorus without the addition of nitrogen.

    Feeding actinidia after planting include only in the fall. It is necessary to wait for the first fruits from a plant in 3-4 years. Stable yields come only after 6 years of age and only on the condition of correct trimming of the crown.

    As a rule, actinidia almost does not suffer from the winter cold. Only weak summer shoots can freeze, therefore, in the fall they are pruned, and also they remove branches that create excessive thickness, provoke the resettlement of harmful fungi, rot, insect pests.

    Autumn pruning is carried out after harvest, when vegetation is declining. In spring, this procedure is carried out very early, until the plant wakes up, otherwise the shoots will expire with juices.

    When planting and caring for actinidia in the Moscow region, in the Urals and other regions, the bush is most often formed on two main shoots. To the south, where summer is longer and less risk of freezing of young shoots, you can try to grow a more powerful specimen. You can improve the maturation of the shoots by gently pinching them after the formation of the ovary.

    In the fall, young creepers are removed from the support and inclined to the ground, covered with peat, spruce or other material. Such care for actinidia after planting in the Urals, in Siberia and in the north of the European part helps to protect the plants from frosting. Adult specimens are only pruned, removing loose and damaged wood.

    Agrotechnical actinidia in Siberia - video

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