Climbing rose - planting and care in the open field, tips and tricks

Let's find out more about what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open field for this wonderful flower will be discussed in stages in this article. Summer residents and gardeners know that with the help of this type of roses, even the most modest plot can be turned into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing Rose - a description of the theme and how to go, how to get, how to apply, how to get, how to apply a quick. ..their meters. Any support, located in close proximity to the bush, rather quickly braided by its long and flexible branches. You probably more than once admired the flower arches of amazing beauty. Flower columns, pyramids, tapestries, successfully disguised old buildings, part of a wall or roof - a luxurious climbing rose can decorate any garden structure with its presence. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, but in order that everything looks harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules of planting, pruning, care and protection of bushes from pests.

The color range of this type of roses is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. The size of the buds can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts( approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety).There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-leafing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

Shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are once blooming species, and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo :

The buds of individual varieties can exude a pronounced aroma, which is heard from a distance, some fragrant slightly audible, delicate and delicate. This culture will feel great in sunny places with good airing. The wetlands are strictly contraindicated, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of roses. If the soil is not suitable for climbing roses on your site, then be sure to dilute it with a suitable one. Thus, sand is introduced into clay soil, and clay( to a depth of about 30 cm) is introduced into sandy soil, in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphoric additives should be added.

All land adaptation procedures should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Seasoned gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their fellows did not grow. If it does not work out differently, then before planting it is necessary to replace the top layer of earth( by 50-70 cm).Ideally, a climbing rose should be planted on a small hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the ground( up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the selected groundwater does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” a part of a house wall with a climbing rope, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm( and at least half a meter from other plants).Most often planting a climbing rose is held in the last weeks of September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of a severe cold snap, the roots will have time to settle down in a new place. With the arrival of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer the rose will bloom in full color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in the spring, then by this time it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet dismissed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal dates for spring planting.

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Planting a climbing rose in the ground in the spring

I’ll make a reservation at once that the rules of spring planting of seedlings are not much different from those of the autumn. All described stages, and also the subsequent leaving, are applied both in the spring, and in the fall. It should be prepared for the fact that the roses planted in spring will lag a little in development, will require you to pay increased attention to your person. Compared with their autumn brethren, they can delay the flowering time by about 10 days.

So, before planting, the sapling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots - also, up to 30 cm. Dig a spacious hole so that the roots have room to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm. If you plant several bushes, the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also 12-15 cm deep - this will protect it from frostin the cold season. The roots gently straighten, fall asleep with soil, slightly compacted with his hands. Make sure that all the roots are directed downwards and do not bend upwards!

Planting spring climbing roses provides for the introduction of nutrient soil in the hole. About 3-5 kg, for example, a peat compost, will appeal to your rose. After planting, the soil is slightly trampled and watered abundantly. It will be very good if in the water for this first irrigation you add a preparation with beneficial growth-stimulating bacteria, for example, "Phosphobacterin".Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover just planted bushes with a plastic wrap - this technique contributes to a better adaptation of the plants in a new place. To do this or not to do it is up to you, if the weather conditions in your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the ventilation time every day. After stable, warm weather is established, remove the film and grumble the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped wood bark or straw.

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How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today in flower shops you can buy climbing roses with open or closed root system. Representatives with open roots should immediately be planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two. Such a shoot must be ripe( bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the wintering. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots must be at least 60-70 cm.

Climbing rose varieties with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you cannot immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying. The elongation of the shoots and their bright hue signal improper storage of seedlings, either in excessive heat or in low light. Such a rose will be weak, painful, is unlikely to survive the winter. Close attention should also be paid to the sites of inoculations; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue in the place of the “joint” that promotes healing. If the vaccination site peels off and looks unhealthy, then with such a rose you will only have problems.

Planting spring from the store in spring, steps:

1. The rose with a closed root system is gently removed from the pot along with an earthy bundle, and then planted in the selected location. Representatives with an open root system remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the graft site, we remove them. If there is a wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to cut the ground with powdered wood or activated carbon.
2. In the water, the roots should be 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport ground will become soft, it can be easily removed and carefully inspect the root system. In the water, you can pre-add the stimulator "Kornevin"( according to the instructions).
3. We take out the roses from the water, if possible, gently straighten the roots and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil( if the situation requires it), has already been discussed a little higher. Thoroughly pour a rose water.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can pour more earth( spud).When the soil is replenished again, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too bright, do not be lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or a cloth of light shades - so it is guaranteed not to burn. Such a protective coating can be left for 5-7 days.

Next, you will need standard care for a climbing rose: hilling, watering, feeding, feeding, weeding, garter and forming a bush.

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Climbing roses - care and cultivation

In the heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully clean the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after the winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that the plant subsequently will not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the graft site remains approximately 10 cm deep in the soil.

The climbing rose requires generous watering during the growing season. After the appearance of buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, the water must penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be quite enough. After a couple of days after rain or watering you need to loosen the soil around the rose. You can also mumble. Over-wetting and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so keep the balance in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

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How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer is an important step in the care of a climbing rose, because this species is quite demanding to feed. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be made every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Agricola-Rose( according to the instructions).After two or three weeks, you can add organic matter - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower".You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg of wood ash, diluted in 50 liters of water. One liter of this mixture is recommended to be diluted in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root itself with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can begin to slowly add phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes for the coming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that after feeding the chemistry with a rose, you can simply ruin it.

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Care for a climbing rose in the first year of

How does it differ from standard requirements? Its further development and flowering splendor depend on competent care in the first year of the plant’s life. When new shoots appear, the soil is removed from the bushes( the one used for hilling).If there are sunny days, then at first, light shading by a coniferous lapnik will not prevent it. After 10–12 days after the removal of the pile-up soil, the first pruning of the central shoot can be started. It should be shortened over the second or third sheet. A little later, with the side branches of the second order, you need to do the same procedure, with the eyes “looking” inside the bush to be removed, and those eyes that are located on the outer side are left for further correct formation of the shrub.

Care for a climbing rose in the first year also implies the removal of buds, however strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering and up to the first weeks of August, only two flowers are recommended to be left on each branch. With the arrival of autumn, these flowers will turn into seed boxes( fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

In the summer, preventive irrigation from the invasion of parasites should not be neglected, and with the onset of autumn, the rose bushes should be covered. Lutrasil, spunbond or spruce branches is an excellent covering material for this plant. The bush is completely covered. When the new spring comes, the young bushes are opened first, the older representatives - later. In principle, all climbing rose bushes are covered for the winter. The old proven method is hilling the ground with sand( 1: 1) to a height of about 30 cm, with the arrival of autumn, and a little later - complete shelter with the onset of the first frost.

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Pruning climbing roses or how to trim a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in the fall for the winter? If other types of roses can be simply spud, then it is necessary to cover the climbing line completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches( left after trimming), combine them into one bundle, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal brackets( cut the wire into fragments and bend) the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with the appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, but the plant is not removed from the support but securely wrapped with protective material directly on it. The base of the bush spud as described above.

How to trim a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care event should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, contributes to the generous and long-term flowering, has a positive effect on the health and vitality of climbing roses. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm, in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown( thickening it) are cut.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning of branches is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to trim climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September( depending on the climate in the region), at this time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots( choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, then they will be successfully replaced by the young basal shoots. If these shoots are not present, then the old branches should be measured approximately 40 cm from the base, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of replacement root branches.

The rest( not very old) shoots are pruned in the place where the new powerful shoots began to form, later it will act as a conductor. Short branches of flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds( about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds( also measured from the base).The skeleton( base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots( evenly directed), on which young branches will later be formed.

How to trim a climbing rose in the spring? The pruner should be picked up when the buds begin to swell on the branches below( the last weeks of April / beginning of May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then at night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than its due time. If you miss the time of pruning, the plant will throw all the forces on the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be scarce.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important moment - the removal, namely, the cutting off( not cutting) of wild shoots that have grown below the graft site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, dead branches are removed, all the affected fragments are clearly visible in spring, when buds swell on the "living" branches.

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Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unsuccessful place where the plant feels uncomfortable and ill. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplanting. The best time to conduct this operation is autumn, September, or the first weeks of October. Transplanting later is not recommended, as the rose needs time to adapt to the new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, the transfer of a climbing rose to another place in spring is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws out after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully digged( moving circularly), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully not to damage the root system of the rose, let the pit be better than it isroots will remain safe and sound.

Next, the plant is removed from the ground, excess soil is removed from the roots, after which the climbing rose is immediately transplanted to a new location.

During transplantation, the same rules are followed as in the case of standard planting - the roots stretch and go down, the empty space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is slightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, it is necessary to fill up the ground( it will slightly settle), to pile up your rose.

There is one interesting nuance related to the transplanting of roses - their belonging to groups of climers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climber;
• ramblers.

Climbing rose-climer grades are called climbs, they form coarse and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Shoots at climber are not very flexible, when transplanted, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Rumblers are precisely climbing roses that have flexible and soft lash shoots that can be up to 10 meters long. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth, when transplanted, they cut off all the shoots that are over two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique speeds up the woody branches.

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How to propagate climbing roses?

There are four ways of breeding this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is grafting. Seed propagation is possible only if you purchase seed in the appropriate store. As you know, self-collected seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or in the garden do not carry the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

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Growing a climbing rose from

seeds Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of plant growth. After removing the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again, impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, top cover with a similar cotton layer, which is also saturated with peroxide.

The resulting “sandwich” is placed in a plastic bag and hid in a refrigerator in the compartment for greens and vegetables. Periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones( also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already sprouted seed can be gently moved to peat tablets or small plastic cups with the corresponding ground mixture. Cartridges for seedlings also fit.

Watering young growth should be as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily coverage for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or in cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the arrival of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

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Reproduction of climbing roses with cuttings

This is the easiest way of reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting the cuttings, the already flowering or still flowering branches, which take from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July, will suit you.

There should be at least two internodes on the cut fragment, the place of the lower cut( angle 45º) should be located close under the kidney. The upper cut( flat) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, the lower leaves are cut off at the cutting, and the upper ones are cut by half. In the container prepared in advance with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, a cutting is placed, buried about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar and cleaned in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the cutting( without removing the jar) and make sure that it does not fall under direct sunlight.

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Reproduction of climbing roses with

layouts In spring, from the shoots growing from the bottom, we choose the most attractive and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we draw up a small bed-groove about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now gently bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal straps. After falling asleep the soil, but leave the top looking outward. Further, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried escape. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut from the bush and put in a separate place as a full-fledged plant.

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Propagation of roses by grafting( budding) on ​​rosehip

Climbing rose can be grafted on rose hips - this technique is often used by gardeners and gardeners. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding dogrose should be generously watered with water.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the shape of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled off. In this kind of "pocket" is placed the eye, cut from a climbing rose. Eye must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, firmly press the peephole to the neck of the stock and also tightly wind this place with a special film for budding( freely sold in flower shops).After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is knocking out, and so that the ground rises above the graft area by 5 cm( this is the minimum).After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly weakened, and with the advent of the new spring it is removed for good.

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Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least in flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Experienced were found 7 factors that affect the lack of flowers in climbing roses.

1. Diseases. The most dangerous diseases of climbing roses are bark cancer and ash( powdery mildew).Good results are obtained by preventive irrigation of bushes with Bordeaux liquid( 1%) at the stage of dormant buds. To reduce the risk of bark cancer, plants should be provided with potash fertilizers. In early autumn, the climbing rose should be fed with potassium sulfate( potassium sulfate) and / or a nitrogen-phosphorus additive, for example, superphosphate. Careful inspection and timely removal of the affected branches, as well as well-conducted shelter of roses for the winter - a powerful shield against diseases that weaken the plant and can really cause the lack of flowers.
2. Wild shoots. Multiple shoots can often be seen near the root zone of a climbing rose. Of course, they should be promptly removed, because they do not carry any benefit, they only suck the vital forces out of the bush. If you do not pay attention to them and allow them to grow further, your rose will gradually run wild and, naturally, will cease to give color. Remove the wild shoots should immediately, as soon as she caught your eye.
3. Wrong shelter for the winter. Climbing rose needs careful shelter before the onset of cold weather. Proper wrapping of the bushes is to create an air cushion between the covering material and, in fact, the bush itself. Such an air gap will protect the plant from dampness during possible thaws, because dampness for a rose is as destructive as low temperatures. Competently carried out the preparation for the winter also consists in restricting watering, starting from the first weeks of September. Soil loosening is also prohibited. From now on, the rose should not be given nitrogen supplements, only potash is allowed.
4. Too many nitrogen supplements. Everything is simple here - nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of green mass of the plant, which, in turn, negatively affects the setting of buds. If you overdo it with nitrogen fertilizer, climbing rose may not bloom.
5. Unsuitable landing site. The wrong place can cause not only the lack of flowers, the rose can simply die. Before choosing a site for planting a climbing rose, make sure that there will not be strong drafts and shading.
6. Illiterate pruning. Everything should be in moderation, if you too actively start pruning and grab a lot of young shoots, the rose simply cannot recover and, of course, will not form buds. Cut the plant correctly, remove the old and thickening crown branches, pay attention to the wild growth.
7. Unsuitable soil composition. On the soil for growing climbing roses mentioned above. The composition of the earth is an important factor, plus it must be fertile, loose, saturated with useful substances.

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Climbing Rose - Diseases and Pests

The prevention and control of diseases or the onset of pests is one aspect of the care for a climbing rose. Spider mite, aphid, leaflet, thrips, rosy sawfly - a list of the most active parasites of climbing roses.

Rose Rose Caterpillar on Rose

Rose, affected by spider mite

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after wearing garden gloves, but as soon as she feels like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Shar Pei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as good old "Karbofos" will help you to cope with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called traditional methods of struggle, then rub the soap( 1 tbsp) on a grater and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate the rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all the affected fragments - this should help.

A spider mite likes heat and drought, a silvery foliage is a sign of the presence of an uninvited guest. Old methods of struggle with thick tobacco infusion or wormwood broth give very good results. Contact necoric "Neoron" is one of the best means of protecting roses from spider mites. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes it is enough double treatment of roses with this drug, so that the tick surrenders its position. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved itself in this case.

According to reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works well against rose sawfly. Preparations Actellic and Phosbecid( 15 ml per 10 l of water) also show a good result, which applies not only to the sawfly, but also to the other “lovers” of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you of spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, coniotriium( burned bark).

Mealy dew

Bacterial cancer

There are no drugs for some diseases( bacterial cancer), but a serious attitude towards prevention minimizes the risk of developing the disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of 3% copper sulfate( before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wounds with the same copper sulfate are the most frequently recommended preventive measures.

The defeat of the coniotrium can be detected in the spring as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately trim the diseased branches( with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment when the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with a 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush should be irrigated too. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the kidneys have not yet dissolved.

In principle, the usual pattern works to combat the other diseases of roses - removal of the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of iron sulphate( 3%), copper sulphate( 2%) or Bordeaux mixture( 3%).Such spraying is often carried out in three stages( with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

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Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers look lush with buds as long as possible and endure wintering. To mention all winter-hardy and long-flowering varieties of climbing roses is simply unrealistic, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

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Climbing rose “Iceberg”

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom very long( until the autumn) and abundantly. Re-flowering is a distinctive feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time it can braid the arch or wall of a building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weak.

“Iceberg” variety, photo:

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Climbing rose “Lavinia”

It can boast cup-shaped flowers of rich pink tint, undemanding to care, re-flowering, aroma with light muscat notes. It grows to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Lavinia variety, photo:

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Polka variety

It is characterized by a wave-like flowering, approximately five waves per summer. Buds terry, apricot shade, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the flavor is weak.

Photos of the Polka variety climbing rose:

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Don Juan climbing rose

A luxurious terry rose with large( 12 cm in diameter) flowers of a rich red color. It is a great option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in the penumbra without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and long-lasting fresh.

Don Juan Grade, photo:

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Flamentants Grade

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing women in red. Her buds are large( 8 cm in diameter), terry, multilobe. It has high frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of a rose is very delicate, but not very pronounced.

Photos of Flamentants roses:

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Climbing Handel roses

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white and pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish middle. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. Rose re-flowering, disease resistance average, should beware of black spot and ash.

Variety “Handel”, photo:

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Variety “Bobby James”

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, it is resistant to diseases, flowers are semi-double white, with a yellow center( about 4.5 cm in diameter), and resemble cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that they are almost invisible foliage. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening up within about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious

variety Photos of Bobby James variety rose:

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Golden Perfume climbing rose

Repeated flowering variety, which blooms slowly, to the joy of gardeners. Large buds( up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma, which can be heard even from afar. Flowers rich bright yellow shade will adorn the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

“Golden Perfume” variety, photo:

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Parade variety

One of the most winter-hardy re-flowering climbing roses, with large( 10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry shade or a rich dark-pink rose or a rich dark-pink pink rose or a rich, pink rose. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. It blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches a height of 2-3.5 m, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the “Parade” variety, photo:

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Climbing rose “Schwanensee”

Another variety that is characterized by high cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have a classic shape, medium size( 7-9 cm in diameter) and a very delicate color — white, with a cream-pink core. Schwannensee blooms to the very frost, slowly dissolving and spreading a delicate subtle scent. A variety of hardy, re-flowering, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Schwanensee Grade, photo:

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Casino Grade

This rose is suitable for cutting in a bouquet, has a bright fruit aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful in flowing form. The multi-petal variety, the diameter of a terry flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, magnificently, many times throughout the summer.

Climbing rose of the "Casino" sort, photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will take time and effort from you, but you will agree, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such "sacrifices."Follow all the above recommendations, be careful in choosing a place of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with strong roots, do not forget to feed them with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her with a reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to live on your site. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and replanting, a rough idea of ​​the individual varieties - you now know all this and can apply my advice in practice.

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