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When pedilanthus appears in the collection on the sill, transplanting, cropping and reproduction of the flower becomes important, the transition to the flower becomes important. This will allow for many years to enjoy the lush greenery and active growth of an amazing flower.
Pedilanthus was among the indoor plants from the dry subtropics of Central and South America. Powerful stems and leathery leaves give out in this crop a plant that is used to withstanding the sun’s rays and lack of moisture. On the rocky plains, where pedilanthus grows, the soil does not abound with nutrients, and its layer is not too large. Such conditions are close to those in which the succulents live. However, unlike cacti, pedilanthus grows quite rapidly and can reach a height of 2.4 meters in nature. This determines the characteristics of care that the plant should receive at home.
Without limitation of vertical growth, the pedilanthus and in the room tends upwards, but the stems branch very reluctantly and gradually become bare at the bottom.
For a large heavy plant to maintain stability and decorativeness, regular transplantation and pedilantus pruning are desirable. The cuttings obtained during pruning of shoots are an excellent planting material, quickly turning into young, brightly greening specimens.
Pruning pedilanthus
Like many indoor plants, pedilanthus has a period of relative rest, during which its development is slowed down. From spring to mid-autumn, the flower is under active vegetation. Shoots go to growth, there is a new foliage. In February and early March, shortly before the florist it is worth thinking about pruning pedilanthus. If it is done on time:
- succulent flower stalks do not lose much moisture;
- cuts quickly dry;
- for the summer the plant is restored;
- removing the tops of the shoots starts their branching, increasing the decorativeness of the flower.
Pedilanthus is not afraid of deep pruning, so you can pinch the ends of the stems with the same success, and shorten adult perennial shoots. In the latter case, several dormant buds are left for their renewal above the ground level.
Pedilantus pruning is carried out with a sharp knife along the internode. Since the plant contains lacteal juice, which can impede healing, sections are slightly dried and treated with crushed activated charcoal. Before you engage in the formation of pedilanthus bush, watering the flower is reduced and renewed in the same volume only after a few days.
The green parts of the plant that remain after pruning and replanting pedilanthus become excellent planting material during reproduction.
Propagation of pedilanthus at home.
In nature, pedilanthus propagates by seed and vegetatively, with the help of rooting growing and lodging stems. Egg-shaped seeds up to 8 mm long are formed after pollination of red or orange-pink flowers of a fancy shape. When they mature, the box bursts, scattering the contents in a nearby area.
At home, seed propagation of pedilanthus is almost not practiced because of their toxicity, complexity of pollination of flowers and the duration of the germination process.
The most common method of flower reproduction is rooting cuttings, which can be obtained from the middle and apical parts of the stem. You can cut a flower throughout the warm season, but it is preferable to use spring pruning. In this case, the cuttings have time to take root and go to growth before the onset of autumn.
The optimal length of cuttings for pedilanthus reproduction is 8–10 cm or 3-4 internodes:
- Lower leaves on planting material removed.
- The cuttings are washed in warm water to remove the protruding milky juice, and then dried with a soft cloth.
- To reduce the risk of rotting slices, cuttings are left to dry for another 18-24 hours.
For rooting, use soft settled water at room temperature, a light soil mixture, sand or vermiculite. Cuttings for pedilanthus breeding after being placed in the ground are transferred to a greenhouse, where the plants will have to stay from 2 to 4 weeks at a temperature of 20–25 ° C.Watering the landing should be moderate to prevent rotting of the underground part. For cuttings and condensation is harmful, formed by a lack of fresh air and plenty of moisture.
If the stem is still rotten, do not despair. After pruning the affected area and drying the pedilanthus stalk, it can again be used to propagate a houseplant.
Transplantation of pedilanthus
Spring is the best time not only for pruning and reproduction, but also for pedilanthus transplantation. Transfer the plant to a new pot should only be after the root system will occupy the entire volume of the previous one. The roots of this culture are not too great, so it will not be very common to replant a flower.
The pot should be only 1–2 cm wider than before, and its depth should be equal to the diameter. Pedilanthus does not impose special requirements on the substrate. Ready mixes for decorative and deciduous cultures or violets are best suited.
At the bottom of the tank, a powerful drainage layer is arranged, eliminating the stagnation of moisture and acidification of the soil, which is dangerous for the plant.
Before a pedilanthus transplant, the substrate, especially if it is made by itself from a mixture of garden and sod soil, peat and sand, should be disinfected. This will prevent the plant from infecting with pests, pathogenic bacteria and fungi hiding in the ground.
Although the flower cannot be called “tender”, there are pests and diseases of the pedilanthus that can harm the plant. Violation of moisture and temperature conditions can cause rot of bacterial and fungal origin. If the flower hits the balcony in summer or is kept at the dacha, the stems and leaves attack the shchitovki and aphid. But most often among the pedilanthus enemies are called mealybug and spider mites.
Since there are toxic substances in the plant's stems, leaves and even seeds, strict precautions are necessary when transplanting, reproducing and pruning pedilanthus.
Even a few drops of juice from the root or shoot of the pedilantus is enough to cause irritation of the mucous membranes. Toxic compounds in the stomach and intestinal membrane cause nausea and vomiting. The effect of juice on sensitive skin is irritation of the integument, inflammation, and sometimes chemical burns and blistering. On the eyes of the liquid is particularly acute. The organs of vision experience severe pain, suffer from conjunctivitis and lacrimation. Swallowing several seeds can cause severe, persistent vomiting and diarrhea.
When working with a flower, especially when cutting pedilanthus and transplanting it is necessary to use gloves. If the juice gets on the skin or eyes, you need to immediately remove its traces of warm running water.
