DIY oil heater repair

Bimetallic plates are the basis! Household heaters marked, electric kettle won, just below the button. Thanks to the bimetallic plate, the device turns off, waiting for the right moment of time, driven by steam, with a cheerful click. Oil heaters are equipped with a similar mechanism, more complicated only. More like seen in the iron, mostly the old version. The screw mechanism is set in motion by the thermostat knob, pressing the contact stronger-weaker against the bimetallic plate( a slightly simplified interpretation, but the approximate meaning is as follows).They say it is better to see once than try a hundred times. .. to hear. Meet fresh photos, while the model is not copied by competitors. The story about the repair of the oil heater with their own hands will be based on the pictures taken.

The device of the simplest oil heater

The oil heater should be covered with clothes and dried. The only type of devices where the owner will avoid fatal consequences. The only side of the harmonica has an extension, equipped with electronic filling, avoid covering the compartment. The oil heater device includes the following elements:

• Oil filled container. Appearance - poured accordion, hot to a decent temperature, wait a little touch. With regard to drying things, fearlessly put carry heat. The tank is sealed, but inside the air volume of 15%.Try to put the oil heater upside down, roll up to the side, return the wheels load. Hearing deaf beats scare mice: air bubbles burst inside. Water is not used by the heater, it will quickly evaporate, the corrosion of the body will become significant, the manufacturing technology would require complete elimination of air from the working fluid( water + oxygen = the most powerful oxidizer of living nature).The coefficient of temperature expansion of the most common liquid of the planet is ten times higher than that of steel. It is not good if the tank breaks.
• The lower part of the harmonic end contains a heater, to which the electronics compartment clings. Oil heater is deprived of the pump, it works by the natural recirculation of oil. The current starts from the heating element up, then at the opposite end of the battery the liquid goes down. Working, publishes audible helix vibrations under the action of alternating voltage. The effect is not eliminable, due to the influence of the magnetic field of the Earth. The boiling point is higher than 100 ºС( 150-200), avoid touching the container, until a change in the phase state does not bring the liquid due to the prohibition of the use of water: the container will burst. TEN double( two spirals), will allow more flexibly to regulate heating.
• A thermal fuse is located near the heating element. The device will not let the fire happen, if suddenly the oil leaks out, the temperature relay breaks. The oil heater would work hard when the copper heating element began to melt. Oil will leak - a high temperature through the case will trigger the sticky thermal fuse. The structure distinguishes bimetallic( reusable) or wire( disposable).The photo shows the presence of a clearly blackening tablet over the heating element: a thermal fuse( see the first photo of the review), or a thermal switch( determined by the design).

• The relay is located at the top. The main difference from the iron is visible: there is no contact with the body. It can be seen, the thermal relay simply tramples the air. The oil heater with a noticed feature resembles an electric kettle, in which a bimetallic plate is often exposed to steam penetrating through a special opening in the housing. Thermal relay - adjustment mechanism, thermal fuse is designed to localize the case of failure of standard means.
• Pictures show: two switches, each one is suitable for the phase, the earth of the heating element, one wire of the thermal relay. Such redundancy allows the indicator lights to glow. One phase is not enough to provide the Joule-Lenz effect. The manufacturer does not know in advance which side the user will plug in, whether the blue( red) wire will be zeroed, exposed to 230 volts.

The electrical part is not much different from the iron, electric kettle, water heater. It is possible to turn on both spirals of the heating element simultaneously, separately. In the latter case, the oil heater will reach the mode longer. There is a chance that in a cold room the construction will work without interruption at all.

Close the air passage holes in the electronic circuit - nothing will burn, the oil heater will shut off ahead of time, restart will not happen soon, the flow of dried wool toe will prevent the flow of fresh air. The bottom of the electronics housing is cut by the supply slits. The air leaves the floor, follows, passing the wires, reaching the top exit. Along the way, a bimetallic plate evaluates the moment of termination of heating.

Disassemble the oil heater

Photographs of the oil heater show: the electronic unit is rolled into a single piece with an accordion. This is not true. The inscription "Do not cover" hides a pair of screws, the mounting bracket is held by a spring located in the bottom part. It can be clearly seen with the naked eye, explanations are unnecessary: ​​the

1. spring comes off;
2. unscrew the bolts.

Inside the oil heater casing, most of the electrical connections are made with detachable terminals. If necessary, remove the switches, bimetallic relay, unscrewing the screws from the inside, opening the wires. Pay attention: TEN tightly rolled. Shows the desire of manufacturers, to prevent anyone inside.

The main damage to oil heaters

More often breaks TEN, flows tank. The oil heater comes into complete disrepair. The relay will last for years. Today, Soviet irons are common, still workable. Repair the mechanism is impossible. Clean with alcohol contacts oxidized need. Repair of an electronic stuffing is limited mainly to replacement of elements. Thermal safety devices are too lazy to repair: it is difficult to calculate the response temperature. Masters avoid taking responsibility. Keys, relays should be cleaned from time to time.

The main thing is the replacement of heating elements, oils, and repair of holes. Those who wish to take should know: in the tank will certainly stockpile air. Plays the role of the pillow when the oil begins to expand. It protects the tank from rupture. When replacing using transformer oil, not suitable waste, will cause fouling of heating elements in a scale.

Synthetic varieties are incompatible with mineral. Those who wish can be well interpreted by old-timers of automotive forums. The mechanism is cleaned of oil, if there is no certainty what type is poured inward until repair.

Buck avoid soldering. Take solder not tin - brass, copper-phosphorus, silver, use a burner. Suitable equipment repairman refrigerators. It is recommended to pour water inside the tank to avoid fire. Respectively, after works the capacity needs to be dried. Before pouring, the oil is evaporated at a temperature of 90 ºС.Persistently heat the liquid. Be careful - it will begin to oxidize, burn. Of course, you can freeze the oil. A thin stream is let through by a chute having a negative temperature. Oil is poured on 90% of the capacity of an oil heater, you can measure it in any way possible with water.

How to remove the heater, depends on the design. There is information about folding and non-demountable versions. Try to pick a heating element of similar power. The shell is made of copper tubes. Tank oil heaters steel, there is the likelihood of corrosion caused by the formation of a galvanic couple.

Small holes are allowed to screw up bolts. Thread the putty putty, heat sealant is applied. It is hard to avoid leaks. One sealant will not do, the heating-cooling cycles will cause the appearance of cracks. No wonder the body is made of an accordion. The metal structure quenches the lion's share of deforming loads.

Listed the main types of faults. Independent repair of oil heaters, when it comes to holes, is a laborious, ungrateful task. However, have at hand an inverter welding thin sheets, localize the hole. It is important to remove, by repairing the rust layer, corroded places, let the seam catch. Repairing oil leaks has a chance of success.

Drop sensors are silent. Preface the input circuit of the oil heater, with a certain roll cut off power to the device. Check the operation of the element is not difficult. Lay on the side, call the contacts. Repairing the oil heater drop sensor is not justified by the risk caused by improper execution of operations. Along with the thermal fuse, we see an element that ensures the safety of operation. Information relating to the repair, set out, we hope, the story is useful to novice masters. Pros themselves know how to fix the problem.