In matters of restoration of technical capabilities and performance of household appliances, we are accustomed to rely on service centers. However, not all failures require the mandatory intervention of the master.
Many minor problems are effortlessly resolved with their own hands. One of the typical examples is the repair of shock absorbers of a washing machine, which can be carried out independently.
The content of the article:
- Typical causes of breakdowns
- The device spring shock absorbers
- Design features of dampers
- Diagnostics of typical faults
-
Step-by-step repair guide
- Making a new gasket for the damper
- The simplest replacement of shock absorbers
- Repair and replacement with tank removal
- Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Typical causes of breakdowns
Depending on the settings, the brand of the unit and the functions performed, the erasers perform per minute from 700 to 1800 revolutions. Such an impressive load, and even with the application of a rotating force, can easily disable the contacting parts, loosen the nodes and connections.
If shock absorbers had not been developed to dampen the vibration of the drum and the tank containing it during the spin cycle, the machine would have to be repaired after every next “session” of washing. Their purpose is no different from the functions of similar car devices.
Shock absorbing devices of washing machines perform work equivalent to similar parts of cars. They are designed to quench the vibrating movements of the tank during the spin / wash process (+)
Dampers, together with outboard springs, exclude direct contacts of the drum of the machine with its metal body, steel and plastic parts. In the form of peculiar supports, they are located under the main rotating organ of technology, which is fixed in the upper part of the unit by suspension springs.
During the operation of the washer, the supports and the springs are unstable, due to which the tank rotating at a breakneck speed may slightly shift relative to its position at rest. Those. These devices, making spring movement, provide the drum with the opportunity to perform the status according to its status without transferring the load to the adjacent parts and components.
The tank of the washing machine is suspended from above with the help of springs, from the bottom it rests on shock absorbers or dampers that prevent the transfer of vibration from the drum to the body of the machine
Constructive components of the washing machine, protected from vibration by shock absorbers, serve much longer, less often fail. True, the shock-absorbing devices themselves in the period of the assigned task gradually lose their original strength.
Older fixtures may require repair or replacement at the most inopportune moment, for example, before the evening wash, the time of which does not allow the master to be called in an urgent okay Or his arrival will have to wait quite a long time. It is here that we will need information about the specifics of the recovery of shock absorbers and their device.
If there is an urgent need to repair shock absorbers, repair or replace them can be done with your own hands.
The device spring shock absorbers
One of the most common types of shock absorbers for washing equipment has a so-called spring-piston design. If expounded exaggerated, it is a metal cylinder, at the top of which is a polymer sleeve. It directs the movement of the stem to the shock absorber.
The upper part of the stem "sharpened" for the fit of polymer liners and gaskets made of rubber, through which it is connected to the drum. A piston with a gasket soaked with a non-drying lubricant is attached to the base of the stem. This lubricant is needed to increase the friction force when the piston rod moves along the cavity of the steel cylinder.
The main structural components of the spring-piston shock absorber include a metal cylinder, which is closed at the top of the sleeve, and a polished rod with a piston
The shock absorber spring-piston type includes a number of sequentially repetitive actions:
- With sharp fluctuations, the shock absorber rod is driven in a linear motion.
- The piston driven by the rod moves through the cylinder cavity.
- Impregnation prevents the piston from slipping without corresponding force.
- When the pressure decreases, the rod returns to its original position.
- When an effort arises, everything repeats.
In order that the air in the cylinder does not create additional resistance, the piston is perforated. When you press on it, a possible airlock easily comes out through the holes made through.
The load that appeared during the rotation of the drum pushes the rod, which in turn pushes the piston fixed at its base along the steel cylinder
Of course, this mode of operation does not give reason to hope for the eternal preservation of the parts rubbing about each other in the original technical condition. At first, just play appears, then wear. And only one spring support can be damaged, and it happens that they are in different versions of washing units from 2 to 4 pieces.
To remove the airlock inside the cylinder, holes are made in it (Fig. left). At the top, the shock absorber stem is provided with a seat for rubber gaskets and polymer liners through which it is attached to the washer tank
The principle of action of shock absorbers of styralok of various brands is similar, but there are some constructive nuances. Their size, angle of inclination, location may differ; not in all models of washing equipment they are supplemented with springs holding the drum from above. Instead of a pair of hangers on top, small springs can be used, connected to the upper counterweight not far off.
In other embodiments, the layout of the tank, consisting of two parts, instead of shock absorbers from the bottom is supported by dampers. This constructive type is classical, because the structure of these devices is also very worth understand. It is possible that this is your case.
The motor in the modification of the washing machine shown in the diagram is mounted at the top. It is not necessary to disassemble it completely to replace the shock absorbers, just remove the side or back of the case
Design features of dampers
Dampers in the device of washing machines are also used in combination with suspension springs, but in their structure conditionally there are not too strong elements. In fact, it is also a steel cylinder, though not a rod with a piston moves through its cavity, but simply a piston with holes in the walls to remove excess air.
The damper piston is also equipped with a friction-type gasket. It is made of a porous polymer and impregnated with a non-drying lubricant that creates additional friction. Gaskets in the damper can be two or even more, it all depends on the features of the device.
Both the metal cylinder and the damper moving along its cavity are provided with rubber bushings at the outer edges, by means of which the shock absorbing devices are connected to the bottom of the machine and to the tank.
There are two main components in the construction of the damper: a piston equipped with a friction gasket and a steel cylinder, in the cavity of which the piston moves
Dampers are available in two versions:
- Collapsible. To repair this variety, it is often enough to simply replace the pressed gasket.
- Disposable. Their edges are rolled. Repair of this type is to replace the fixture.
The values of the maximum allowable force possible for a particular damping device are indicated on the bodies of dampers or shock absorbers. Typically, the load varies in the range of 50 - 150 newtons. When working in a manufacturer-guaranteed mode, the washing machine rarely exceeds these limits.
When buying a new damping device for replacement, do not exceed the characteristics indicated on the previous part. If the case indicates 100 N, then you should not deceive yourself about the fact that an element with 150 N will last longer, you need to purchase exactly the same or with similar indicators.
The engine is attached to the bottom of the tank of this model; the engine and other nodal connections will need to be removed before removing to replace the dampers.
Diagnostics of typical faults
Shock absorbing devices of washing machines belong to the mechanical part of household equipment. Their repair and replacement do not require fundamental knowledge in the field of electricians and even mechanics. So, even the intervention of an amateur will not be able to cause serious damage.
Note that unique technical documentation is issued for each model of the washing unit. Service receptions are usually authorized, devices are patented. However, there are methods for repairing shock-absorbing devices that are common to almost all types of washing machines, the specifics of which should be understood.
The appearance of typical damage to shock absorbers or dampers will be signaled by a specific noise that occurs when the machine is in operation, by a knock too much inside its body.
Symptoms of damage or wear of the shock absorber are unusual noise during washing / spinning, a strong knock, excessively active vibration with a distorted body
When alarming sounds are detected, their condition should be examined, and for this purpose it is necessary to provide yourself with access to the checked devices. Depending on the model for the survey, it will be necessary to remove either the top panel, or the side panel, or the back panel.
Methods for diagnosing shock absorbers for washing machines depend on the type of load:
- From the front. If the application of force to the tank on top of the sealing cuff hatch loading folds are formed, will be replaced shock absorbers. By the way, you can notice a couple of folds while the machine is working with worn fixtures.
- With vertical. If, when an effort is applied to the tank from above, there is no resistance, and the tank continues to sway like a pendulum after the interruption of pressing, you need to repair it.
In the course of diagnostics with top loading, it is necessary to pay attention to how much the tank sags when pressed, if the indicated defect takes place. It would be nice to track the fact of sagging and its conditional value with a full tank load.
A signal to replace the shock absorbers will serve as folds on the sealing cuff, which must be changed often not less often than the shock absorbers themselves.
It is imperative to check whether there is at least some stock for the reciprocating movement of the tank of the washing machine being inspected. If it sags so that it simply does not have room for displacement during vibration, then during washing or spinning there will be a loud knock. And this is a sure sign of damage to the tank in the near future, and just unbalance.
In the normal technical condition of front-loading washers, cuff folds should not be observed at all, regardless of the function performed. Note that the formation of a single crease on this rubber seal indicates that only one of the shock absorbers is damaged.
For normally functioning units with top load, if shock-absorbing devices are not damaged, after applying force to the tank from the top and abrupt load interruption, i.e. retracting the arm, the tank should smoothly return to its original position without undue swinging and vibrations.
If the dampers of the washing machine are damaged, then it will be possible to determine this by the cuff even with a minimum load of the drum. The presence of two folds of the seal indicates that repair or replacement requires two devices
Step-by-step repair guide
A washing machine with a damaged shock absorber or a worn damper seal, of course, can still work for some time without repair operations. But it should be remembered that without quenching the vibrations, any extremely important parts and mechanical systems may split or become detached. The tank and piston assembly suffer the most.
Making a new gasket for the damper
If noise and heavy knocks are detected in a washing machine with dampers, it is enough to change the sealing gaskets. To do this, simply detach the fixture and, according to the plumbing rules, simply cut out new gaskets from a PCB or a piece of rubber of suitable thickness.
You can repair only collapsible versions of dampers. In most cases, it is necessary to simply replace the gaskets and sleeves used in the nodes connecting the device to the tank and to the bottom of the unit.
As the starting material for the manufacture of an excellent fit-out rubber brake pad for the car. Rubber thickness is better to choose according to the actual size of the gap between the tank and the shock absorbing device.
The simplest replacement of shock absorbers
In the vast majority of situations, the styralok shock absorbers must be replaced completely. Moreover, repairmen advise to change the whole kit, and not just one device.
In the statements of experienced masters there is logic. Indeed, in the working process all the shock absorbers wore out about the same. After replacing only one device during the washing / spinning period, oscillations will be extinguished unevenly, which very soon will lead to breakage and abrasion of previously intact elements.
Image Gallery
A photo of
Before starting repair work, turn off the washing machine from the mains and from the water supply, having previously shut off the tap in front of the supply hose
We unscrew the screws and remove the back cover of the machine, closing access to the shock absorbers. In some versions, it is enough to remove the side panel or just turn the machine over.
Dismantle the damping device. Along the way we decide whether it is to be restored or not.
If the device has only worn out the gaskets, change them, if the fixture is damaged or it is not folding, install a new one, then assemble the unit
Step 1: Install the machine in an inclined position
Step 2: Removing the back of the case
Step 3: Disassemble the Damper
Step 4: Replacing Sealing Gaskets
If the broken devices can be simply disconnected from the underside of the washing machine and from the tank, the work is carried out without much difficulty.
To replace:
- We remove and remove the part of the body located on the side required for repair.
- We dismantle damaged and broken fixtures.
- Install the new kit and assemble the washer in the reverse order.
There are models in which the fastening to the tank is made so that dismantling is possible only with this element. Owners of such equipment will have almost complete analysis of equipment before repair. In any case, before proceeding with the repair actions, it is worth looking into the data sheet and become familiar with the mounting features.
Repair and replacement with tank removal
To replace the dampers in such machines they have to almost completely disassemble.
Image Gallery
A photo of
For self-repair work, manufacturers of styralok produce repair kits. You can buy it or only shock absorbing devices, because available lubrication is unlikely to be required
Remove the top panel of the case, disconnecting the fasteners. The screws holding it can be screwed back so as not to forget where they are from, or put them in a box with divisions and sign the disassembly stage
We dismantle all system devices located above the tank, remove the box designed for loading detergents
To dismantle the front panel of the case, unscrew the screws at the bottom, after unscrewing them, you still need to remove the retaining ring holding the sealing cuff
Step 1: Preparing the Repair Kit
Step 2: Undo and remove the top case panel
Step 3: Remove System Nodes and Tool Boxes
Step 4: Removing the lower mounting points
Having completed the disassembly of the case, proceed to removing the tank machine, at the same time we clean the parts from rust and calcium growths. In order not to get lost in the actions that need to be exactly repeated during the reassembly process, we fix all the steps with the camera of the phone.
Image Gallery
A photo of
Disconnect the wires of the internal wiring of the washing machine, not forgetting to photograph the process
Remove the springs holding the tank with the drum on top. To remove them is quite difficult, it takes a lot of effort. If it is impossible to disconnect the springs at all, we only get the tank with a part of the damper attached
We unfasten and remove the water drain system, if necessary, clean and inspect for possible damage.
Carefully, without sudden movements and nerve jerks, remove the tank from the housing of the washing machine
We put the tank so that it was convenient to work. There is no need to remove the motor, but if it interferes, it is better to detach it. Red on the photo indicates the attachment point of the damper, green - the connection of tank parts
Check the real state of the dampers. If only replacement of the gasket is required, then we perform it, if necessary, we change the device completely
We assemble the washing machine in the reverse order of disassembly. If necessary, remove rust, tint spray problem areas of the body
At the end of the assembly, the washer is connected to the power supply and water supply, not forgetting to open the water supply valve that was blocked before work. Check the unit for performance
Step 5: Disconnecting Internal Wiring
Step 6: Removal of spring hangers at the top of the tank
Step 7: Remove the water drain system
Step 8: Removing the typewriter drum from the case
Step 9: Dismantle the dampers
Step 10: Checking the real condition of the dampers
Step 11: Reassemble the washing machine
Step 12: Checking the start of the washing machine
Works are performed in the following sequence:
- Remove the top panel of the housing.
- We dismantle the box to load liquid products and powder.
- Remove the control panel along with its adjacent systems.
- Separate the spring holding the top of the tank.
- Remove the front panel and disconnect the functional units of the machine from the tank.
- Remove the tank with dampers.
- We make the replacement of devices, if possible, get rid of the replacement of gaskets or repairs.
- We make the assembly of the machine, strictly adhering to the sequence of analysis, only in reverse order.
In order not to make mistakes in the assembly process, it is advisable to photograph the course of disassembly.
For fasteners, it is better to make an ancillary "organizer" with several cells that can be signed along the way.
The self-made organizer will ensure the storage of fasteners, facilitate the work on disassembly / assembly, eliminates waste of time searching for parts, “tells” the location screws and nuts
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Movie with detailed instructions for replacing shock absorbers:
Video demonstration of repair of dampers of the washing unit:
Recovery Guide for Damping Devices:
Without excessive self-deception, we agree that for an inexperienced home wizard, the above described repair operations may become a problem. At first, the procedure itself will be frightening with uncertainty, but all this tension will only oppress the performer for the first time. Self-made repairs will definitely be a useful experience, on the basis of which later on all actions will be carried out easier and faster.
